Second, because magic rings are adjustable, you can work a variety of stitches into them – both the number and type of stitches can vary but the magic ring will still work.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

What Does the Magic Ring Replace?

If you’ve crocheted in the round before (rather than in rows), you may have started something like this – chain 2, slip stitch into the first chain, then begin working your stitches into that ring.

Unfortunately this method leaves an open hole in your work. And if you’re going to be stuffing a toy, as with amigurumi, this is not ideal.

So what’s the solution? You guessed it – a magic ring! Let’s walk through it step by step!

I recommend using a worsted weight yarn in a light color to practice, along with a larger sized hook like this one.

How to Crochet a Magic Ring

While occasionally you may see it called a “magic circle” or “magic loop”, magic ring is the most common crochet terminology. If you’re following a crochet pattern, you may also see this abbreviated as MR.

Let’s take a look at a breakdown of each step of making a magic ring.

Step One: Wrap Yarn Around Fingers in X Shape

Although there are multiple methods, when I make a magic ring, I start in exactly the same way as I do when I start a slip knot.

With your loose yarn end hanging down your palm, wrap the yarn behind and around your index and middle fingers, as pictured, making an X shape.

Step Two: Hook the Yarn

Insert your hook under the side of the X closest to the hook, then grab the yarn (the other side of the X), and pull through.

Step Three: Pull Up a Loop

With the yarn you just grabbed, loosely pull up a small loop. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the loop with your non-dominant hand to keep the shape in place.

Step Four: Chain One

Continuing to pinch the loop (so it doesn’t just fall apart), chain 1. This locks the loop into place and does not count as a stitch (when using single crochet stitches for the rest of the ring).

Step Five: Stitch into the Loop

Begin working the indicated number of stitches into the loop. When making amigurumi, this first round is usually 6 single crochet stitches, but any basic stitch or number of stitches can be worked into a magic ring.

Note: if a pattern calls for taller stitches such as double crochet to be worked into the ring, it will often prompt you to chain 2 and this may then count as a stitch.

If you find your magic ring is a little too loose to easily work into, make it smaller by pulling a bit on the loose yarn tail.

Step Six: Pull the Yarn Tail to Close the Circle

Once you have crocheted the number of stitches needed for your first round, gently pull the beginning yarn tail. Continue pulling until the ring is completely closed.

As you increase the size of your work with your additional rounds, you can further secure this yarn tail. Just weave it in between your stitches on the wrong side of your work.

When and Why to Use a Magic Ring

Even if you’re not into amigurumi, magic rings are really useful for any crochet that is worked in the round.

For example, I use magic rings when beginning hats, baskets, and even some granny squares! Anytime you’re working in the round and don’t want a beginning hole, the magic ring is the right choice.

I hope this tutorial was helpful for you as you learn the magic ring for yourself! Let me know in the comments what you’ll use this method for.

If you’d like to see a video tutorial, check out these left-handed and right-handed guides by Planet June.

If you’d love to learn more skills to improve your amigurumi, try these. And if you’d like to see more stitch tutorials, click here.

No time to crochet today? Save this on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Crochet a Magic Ring appeared first on Crochet to Play.

All basic crochet stitches result in making the vertical post of the stitch and the top of the stitch. The top of the stitch is made of two loops – the front loop and the back loop – and looks like a sideways “v”.

The front loop of the “v” is the loop nearest to you when you’re crocheting and the back loop is the loop furthest from you.

Let’s take a closer look at the “anatomy” of a stitch and how to crochet in the front loop only.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crocheting in the Front Loop Only

As you follow a crochet pattern, you may see crocheting in the front loop only abbreviated in many ways. Designers commonly use “FLO” or just “FL”, and then often add the type of stitch to this shorthand.

So if you need to crochet a single crochet into the front loop only, it would likely be abbreviated as “FLsc” or “FLOsc”. Likewise, a half double crochet worked into the front loop only would be written as “FLhdc” or “FLOhdc”, and so on through the stitches.

Ready to try it for yourself? If you’re new to crocheting or just practicing, I recommend using a worsted weight yarn in a light color and a larger hook, size I/5.50mm or bigger.

Step One: Begin Your Stitch

Whichever stitch you’re completing, begin by starting that stitch as usual. If, for example, you’re working in double crochet (as pictured here), you would begin by yarning over once.

Step Two: Insert Your Hook

Next, you’ll insert your hook into only the front loop of the “v”. This can take a little maneuvering of the wrist since it’s at a different angle than traditional crochet stitches.

Step Three: Finish the Stitch

Once you’ve inserting your hook under the front loop only, you just complete your stitch as usual. So with the example of double crochet again, you would yarn over, pull your hook back through that front loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops twice.

Pretty simple, right? If you can complete basic stitches like single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and so on, all you have to do is adjust from working in both loops to using only the front loop.

When and Why to Crochet in the Front Loop Only

So, now that you know how to complete a stitch in the front loops only, you may wonder why this is a helpful crochet technique to master.

Why might a crochet pattern direct you to crochet in the front loop only? Let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons.

Amigurumi

Amigurumi, the crochet art of creating 3D toys, uses the front loops fairly often. Most commonly, the invisible decrease stitch is worked into the front loops to minimize the look of the decrease (so it blends in smoothly with the other stitches).

Additionally, when you want a 3D shape to flare out, such as the brim of a hat, crocheting in the front loop only can achieve this result.

Texture

When completing a row of stitches in the front loop only, the back loops will be left remaining. This creates a horizontal ridge that adds a bit of texture to your fabric. This ridge won’t be visible from the front or right side of the fabric, but depending on your pattern’s use of turned rows, it could become a visual feature.

Crocheting in the FLO does not, however, create the ribbing that crocheting in the BLO does.

Drape

Crocheting in the front loop only can elongate your stitches which loosens them just a bit. This can add more drape when creating garments. Thus, you may come across wearable patterns where the designer uses FLO stitches to achieve more drape.

I hope this tutorial was helpful as you learn and improve your crochet skills! If you’d like to see more crochet stitch tutorials, check them out here.

And if you’d like to see a video tutorial for this stitch, take a peak here at this video by Yarndrasil.

No time to crochet today? Save this post on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crocheting in the Front Loop Only appeared first on Crochet to Play.

The good news? Crocheting in the back loop only is really simple once you’ve mastered basic crochet stitches (like single crochet, double crochet, etc.). In fact, you can crochet in the BLO of any and all crochet stitches that have that signature “v” on top.

Ready to try it? Let’s begin! To practice this stitch, all you’ll need is yarn and a hook. I recommend beginning with worsted weight yarn in a light color (easier to see and count your stitches), and a size I/5.50mm hook, but use whatever works best for you.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

How to Crochet in the Back Loop Only

Every basic crochet stitch results in the same “v” shape on top. That “v” is made with two loops, the front and the back. The front loop is the loop closest to you and the back loop is furthest from you.

Step One: Begin Your Stitch

The first step of working in the BLO is to begin your stitch as you usually would. So if you’re working a half double crochet or double crochet, you’ll begin by yarning over. Or if you’re working a single crochet, you won’t yarn over.

Step Two: Insert Your Hook

Next, instead of inserting your hook under both loops of the “v” as usual, insert your hook under only the back loop (pretty obvious where this stitch got its name, huh?).

Step Three: Complete Your Stitch

Once you’ve inserted your hook under the BLO, complete your stitch as usual. So if you’re working a half double crochet, you’ll yarn over, pull your hook back through, yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

This technique can be performed whether you’re crocheting in rows or in the round. Also, note that occasionally you’ll come across a pattern where this is abbreviated “BL” instead of “BLO”.

When and Why to Crochet in the Back Loops Only

So, why would a crocheter want to crochet in the back loops only? Well, there are plenty of reasons! Let me tell you a few.

Texture

When you crochet in the BLO, there is texture created by the remaining, unworked front loops of each stitch. This horizontal texture can add a striped detail whether working in rows or rounds, from blankets and garments to baskets and hats.

Ribbing and Stretch

One of my favorite reasons for crocheting in the BLO is to add ribbing and stretch to hats and garments!

The fabric created by crochet isn’t exactly known for being stretchy and flexible. But when you work repeated rows in the back loops around a hat brim, a sleeve cuff, or a sweater hem, you will find this gives you lots of stretch.

Amigurumi Shaping

Amigurumi (Japanese for a crochet stuffed toy) benefits from crocheting in the back loops only all the time, as different shapes must be made to achieve the three dimensional results.

This is especially helpful when going from a flat shape, like a circle, to a cylindrical shape that can be stuffed. If you crochet a flat circle in single crochet stitches, then work just one round in the BLO and then switch back to regular stitches, you’ll begin to form a cylinder.

Additionally, many amigurumi patterns will include a round in the back loops only just to leave the front loops remaining. Then later in the pattern, the yarn will be reattached and a new shape will begin using those leftover front loops (such as a doll skirt).

I hope this walked you through the steps you needed to start crocheting in the back loop only for yourself! If you’d like to see a video tutorial of this method, check this out. And if you’re looking for more stitch tutorials, take a peek here.

Happy crocheting!

No time to crochet today? Pin this tutorial to Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crocheting in the Back Loop Only appeared first on Crochet to Play.

I love keeping plants in the house, and although I’ve killed a few, I’ve gotten much better! Plant pot covers can be a fun way to add a little more of your personality around your home.

This snail planter pattern is perfect for the tiny 2″ pots you’ll often find in the floral section of the grocery store, but you can adapt it for larger pots as well.

Snails aren’t always the friendliest to outdoor gardens, but there’s something about them that makes me smile (slugs, not so much). And this amigurumi snail is pretty cute, if you ask me.

This pattern will walk you through making your own pot cover and snail, step by step. Ready to get started?

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Plant Holder Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Paintbox Cotton Aran in Light Caramel and Peach Orange
• Size G/4.0mm and E/3.5mm crochet hooks
• Stitch marker
• Stuffing
• Safety eyes – size 6mm
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Embroidery thread in black

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• invdec – invisible decrease (an alternative to the sc2tog stitch)
• BLO – back loops only

Finished size:

Gauge is not essential for this pattern, but it is helpful to have tight, even stitches.

With my own tension, for reference, the first six rounds of the pot cover measure about 2 1/4″ in diameter, using cotton aran-weight yarn and a size G/4.0mm crochet hook.

The size of your plant pot cover will vary based on your personal tension while crocheting, as well as the yarn and hook you use. For example, acrylic yarn will work up slightly larger than cotton yarn, even at the same yarn weight.

The finished snail planter, once the snail and shells are attached, is about 5″ tall and 4.5″ wide.

Pattern Notes:

This pattern uses continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to keep your place.

Whenever I’m crocheting in amigurumi style, like the snail in this pattern, I use the yarn under stitch rather than the yarn over. It makes my stitches tighter and gives them the “x” look that I prefer.

If this is unfamiliar to you, I go into a lot of detail about yarning over vs. under in this post, so check it out if you’d like to learn more.

If this crochet plant holder pattern isn’t quite the right size for your plant pot, no problem. You can adjust the size of the pot base by continuing to increase after Round 5, or stopping at an earlier round if the base in the pattern in too big.

Adjust the number of rounds to fit your plant’s base, using multiples of six, then continue up the sides by crocheting in the back loops only and then single crocheting around. This post about increasing circles may help you adjust the size of your base.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Snail Plant Holder Pattern:

Pot Cover

R1: Using Peach Orange and size G/4.00mm hook, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) 6x around. (30)

If you are adjusting this pattern to accommodate a larger pot, continue increasing at this point until you’ve achieved the size needed (see Pattern Notes).

R6: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R7-R12: Sc in each st around.
R13: (4 sc, inc) 6x around. (36)
R14-R15: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, weaving in ends. Set aside.

Antennae (make 2)

R1: Using Light Caramel and size E/3.5mm hook, 5 sc into a magic ring. (5)
R2: Sc in each st around.
R3: Invdec, 3 sc. (4)
R4-R5: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Set aside.

Snail

R1: Using Light Caramel and size G/4.00mm hook, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (3 sc, inc) 3x around. (15)
R4: (4 sc, inc) 3x around. (18)
R5: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R6-R8: Sc in each st around.
R9: 3 sc, 1 invdec, 3 sc, 4 invdec, 3 sc, 1 invdec, 3 sc. (18)
R10: 6 sc, 3 invdec, 6 sc. (15)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 6 sts apart.

Using black embroidery thread, embroider two lines that meet to form a mouth shape, pictured at rounds 7 and 8. Tie beginning and ending tails of thread together and stuff inside head.

To add the antennae (technically called tentacles on a snail, if you can believe it), use your yarn needle and the long tail left after the last antennae round. Attach on top of head, at rounds 2-3, then weave in ends inside head.

Stuff the head and neck as you go on (but only stuff neck through about round 20, then stop stuffing).

R11-R13: Sc in each st around.
R14: (4 sc, inc) 3x around. (18)
R15-30: Sc in each st around. Stop stuffing at Round 20
R31: (4 sc, invdec) 3x around. (15)
R32: (3 sc, invdec) 3x around. (12)
R33: (2 sc, invdec) 3x around. (9)

Fasten off, using yarn tail and yarn needle to weave through front loops of final round of stitches. Pull together and weave in end.

Snail Shell (make 2)

R1: Using Peach Orange and size G/4.00mm hook, sc 6 into a magic ring. (6)
R2: (Sc, inc) 3x around. (9)
R3-R57: Sc in each st around. Stuff very lightly as you go.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail.

Putting It All Together

Once you have crocheted the pot cover, snail, and two spirals for the shell, it’s time to sew everything together so you can add your plant.

Step One: Sewing the Snail to the Pot Cover

First, cut a long length of yarn in Light Caramel. The snail will be sewn to the pot cover, with its head sticking out above it and the flat end of its body underneath.

Place the snail along the pot as described above, then bring your yarn needle from inside the pot outward, sewing the snail to the pot along the top of the pot and along where the back of the snail and the pot meet.

Then, continue to sew the flat bottom of the snail’s body to the bottom of the pot. Once the entire snail is attached, weave in your ends.

You’ll notice that without any weight in the pot cover, the snail tips forward, but once you put a plant inside it will stay upright.

Step Two: Winding the Shells

Thread the long tail from the end of the shell (which looks like a tube) onto your yarn needle. Sew end of tube closed.

Wind tube up counterclockwise into a tight shell shape. Secure this shape by weaving your yarn needle from one side of the shell to the other. Try to weave well into the middle of the stitches so the yarn doesn’t show.

Repeat this along multiple points so the shell keeps its shape. Do not cut yarn tail or weave in.

Repeat with second shell.

Step Three: Sewing the Shells to the Pot Cover

Place one shell on one side of the pot, matching up the top of the shell with the top of the pot cover.

Using your yarn needle and remaining yarn tail (or cut new length of yarn as needed), first sew the top of the shell to the top edge of the pot cover to match them up, then sew around the perimeter of the shell, attaching securely to the pot cover.

Repeat on other side. Weave in all remaining ends.

Step Four: Add a Plant!

Once you’ve got your snail and shells added to your pot cover, it’s time to add a plant. Then you can keep this sweet snail on a kitchen windowsill, an office desk, and give it as a springtime gift to a friend.

It’s sure to make people smile (the snail planter pictured in this blog post was quickly adopted by my tween daughter)!

I hope you enjoyed making your crochet plant holder with this free pattern. If you’re looking for more free patterns, take a look around here!

No time to crochet your pot cover today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Plant Holder Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

I absolutely love weddings. It’s so special to witness two people be joined together, and we often want to honor these new beginnings with a handmade gift or an heirloom item for the occasion.

Below you’ll find gifts you can crochet for the happy couple, crochet patterns for the bride and groom (and bridal party), and ideas for special touches for the ceremony and decor.

The majority of these patterns are free, but I’ve included some paid patterns as well. I’m sure you’ll find lots of crochet wedding patterns you’ll love!!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Patterns for Wedding Gifts:

First up, let’s look at some patterns that are perfect for gifting to the bride and groom.

1. Mr. and Mrs. Pillow by Orsak Originals

This sweet pillow uses the tapestry crochet method to create the words “Mr. & Mrs”. It would look adorable in the newlywed’s entryway or bedroom and would surely be a favorite gift.

If you’re unfamiliar with tapestry crochet, not to worry. The designer of this beginner-friendly pattern includes a graph and tutorial images to walk you through it step by step.

2. Harbor Crochet Hand Towels by Stitching Together

Hand towels are the perfect practical kitchen gift. Wouldn’t these Harbor Crochet Hand Towels be sweet in a gift basket, paired with some hand soap, a dish brush, and other kitchen goodies?

Jessica from Stitching Together designed this free pattern using simple stitches that beginners can pick up quickly.

I love the colors she chose, but you could use any combination of colors tailored to the bride and groom’s taste for a simple, thoughtful gift.

3. Amigurumi Bride and Groom by Crochet to Play

Here’s an amigurumi pattern from my own Etsy shop – these Bride and Groom dolls. The best part about this pattern? It’s completely customizable!

You can pick from three dress styles, different hairstyles, the type of tie, or even give the groom a beard. The possibilities are endless!

Take a look here and scroll down to the reviews to see how other crocheters have personalized these dolls. So cute, right?!

4. Monogram Pillow by Two Little Birds

Emily from Two Little Birds always brings us crochet designs with modern farmhouse style, like these monogram pillows!

Choose two contrasting colors (I love the neutrals she shows) and follow her tapestry crochet method to make the couple a wedding gift with their new, shared initial.

Not only would this make a thoughtful handmade gift, but it would be personalized for the couple too. Perfect!

5. Double Wedding Ring Heirloom Blanket by Jennifer Olivarez

Have you ever seen a traditional wedding ring quilt? They are made with interlocking rings (symbolizing marriage) and are just beautiful. Wedding quilts are often made by mothers and grandmothers for their children as they marry.

Jennifer Olivarez designed a crochet version of this concept and it is stunning. Yes, this project would be a labor of love, but what a priceless gift this would be.

You can find this Heirloom Wedding Ring Quilt here on the Annie’s Attic website.

6. Wildflower Dishcloths by Daisy Farm Crafts

Dishcloths aren’t the fanciest of gifts, but don’t we all need them? And in these vibrant colors, this Wildflower dishcloth pattern by Daisy Farm Crafts makes even the humble dishcloth quite eye catching.

The free pattern uses beginner-friendly stitches (single crochet, double crochet, slip stitches, and decreases) for a great, textured result. Add these dishcloths to a gift basket for a sweet wedding gift.

Crochet Patterns for the Bride and Groom

If you’re a bride or groom looking for ways to incorporate crochet into your style for the big day, these patterns are for you.

1. Gardenia Shawl by Maria Bittner

With its open, lacy texture and scalloped edge, this Gardenia Shawl is delicate and beautiful. It would be gorgeous for a winter wedding or an outdoor evening ceremony!

The free pattern uses crochet thread to achieve the shawl’s lightweight drape. It would look beautiful in white or ivory, but with different yarn, it could also add a pop of color if that’s the look you have in mind.

2. Groom’s Floral Boutonniere by Nazanin S. Fard

Fresh flowers are always beautiful for a wedding, but what if the flowers you want are out of season or over budget? Why not crochet your own?

This free, versatile pattern includes directions for roses, carnations, and leaves. It includes arrangements for both a crochet bridal bouquet and crochet boutonniere or nosegay. What a great way to add a personal touch to the big day!

3. Bridal Bouquet Wrap by Amanda Saladin

This bridal bouquet wrap is a lovely (and practical!) way to hold the bride’s flowers together on the big day. You could make one wrap for the bride in white, and multiple for the bridesmaids’ bouquets to match the color of their dresses.

I love the pearl button details, but you could use whatever style button fits your wedding theme to personalize this even more.

The bouquet wrap pattern uses easy stitches and works up quickly. Find it for free right here.

4. Wrapped in Lace Bridal Garter by Kirsten Holloway

Sometimes a design is so detailed that at first glance, it’s hard to believe it’s handmade. This bridal garter fits that description!

To achieve this lacy, delicate effect, the free pattern uses crochet thread and a small hook. Ribbon, a flower, and a pearl are included to add to the garter’s beauty. Perfect for a bride on her wedding day.

5. May Roses by Attic 24

Lucy from Attic 24 has this free rose pattern that can be repeated and combined to make a beautiful crochet bouquet.

The pattern includes instructions for both the roses and some leaves. Placing them together with pearls and ribbon, as shown here, makes for a lovely arrangement.

6. Wrapped in Lace Fingerless Gloves by Kirsten Holloway

Here we have another gorgeous design by Kirsten Holloway – these lace fingerless gloves! Using lightweight crochet thread, ribbons, and pearls, these gloves add a vintage, romantic touch to accessorize the bride.

The free pattern is available here and uses combinations of simple stitches to achieve the romantic, lacy look you see. The stitches used provide some stretch to fit many hand sizes.

7. Floral Hair Clip by Kirsten Holloway

These delicate floral hair clips would be a sweet touch for a bride or her bridesmaids on the big day. This free pattern works up quickly and attaches to bobby pins for easy use.

Try different colors, hook sizes, and pearls or beads to personalize this pattern to your wedding style.

Crochet Patterns for the Wedding Party

Next up, we have designs especially for the other participants in the wedding. Check out some of these beautiful ideas!

1. Elegant Floral Headband by Amanda Saladin

Can’t you just imagine this headband on a flower girl in a garden wedding? Or on the bride or bridesmaids in a whimsical, boho style wedding?

With its dainty flowers and trailing leaves, this headband is sure to bring some smiles. Customize this free pattern with your own wedding colors to add your handmade touch.

2. Floral Drift Shawl by Made by Gootie

If you’re having a wedding in the cooler months, or just a cooler time of day, what better way to warm up your bridesmaids than with this stunning Floral Drift Shawl!

This lovely shawl is worked in double crochet rows, followed by a wide band of floral stitches. The combination of stitches makes it a winner! Best of all, the pattern is free.

3. Heart’s Desire Ring Bearer Pillow by Kathryn White

This darling ring bearer pillow reminds me of my grandma’s crochet days – lacy, almost doily-like crochet worked in the round and then added to a pillow.

This free pattern is graceful and gets the look just right. Make it for a family heirloom that little ring bearers can use in many more weddings for years to come.

4. Secret Garden Tote Bag by Kirsten Holloway

The Secret Garden Tote Bag, with its feminine stitch repeats and sturdy handles, is a delightful design.

While you might not think of a tote bag for bridesmaids, how sweet would it be to make these for yours and add personalized gifts inside as a thank you for their commitment to your wedding?

The pattern is versatile and free. Find it right here.

Crochet Patterns for the Wedding Ceremony and Decor

Finally, let’s take a look at some patterns you could crochet to add special touches and decorations to your wedding ceremony and venue.

1. Hope Lace Bible Cover by Kirsten Holloway

If you’re having a loved one recite a special Bible verse during your ceremony, this crochet Bible cover would be a great way to add some sentimental charm to the moment.

The free pattern uses crochet thread and a small hook to achieve the delicate, lacy look.

2. Snowflake Heart Ornament by Golden Lucy Crafts

Are you having a winter wedding? These little Snowflake Hearts would make a cute decoration strung together or as part of table centerpieces (or even little favors).

The pattern for these hearts is free, and uses starch to keep the hearts’ shape. Find it here.

3. Boho Hearts Bunting by Lesia Little Adventure

If you love boho style and are looking for a way to decorate your wedding venue, try this bunting pattern!

Made with DK weight yarn, this beginner level pattern includes both photo and written directions. There’s even a free video tutorial included here. Have fun!

4. Little Penguin Wedding Couple by Foxy Crochet Design

With their darling details – top hat, bridal veil, and bow tie – these little penguins are an adorable pattern for a wedding. Put them by the guest book to get some smiles!

The pattern includes both written and photo instructions, with lots of step by step support. Find it here.

5. Wedding Favor Bags by HanJan Crochet

Last but not least, take a look at these little favor bags. They’re simple and sophisticated, and can be made with just a bit of crochet and hessian cloth. Pop some candy or mints inside and you have a lovely gift for your wedding guests.

You can find the free pattern for these wedding favor pouches here.

And there you have it! I hope you found lots of inspiration for ways to add a crochet touch to your big day with these crochet patterns for weddings. Let me know in the comments what you’re planning!

If you’d like to look at more free crochet patterns, try these.

No time to crochet today? Save this post on Pinterest for when you need it!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Patterns for Weddings appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Maybe it’s because Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, but I wanted to put a sweet spin on this design by making the peas into hearts. They’re so cute and easy, beginners and advanced crocheters alike will love this pattern.

You can make the peas and pea pod by themselves, but if you’d like to turn them into a personalized valentine gift, I’ve included a free printable you can download as well. Add one of the tags to your finished work and it makes an adorable valentine. Hope you love it!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Free Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern

This crochet pattern is written in amigurumi style. If you’re new to amigurumi, there are plenty of tips to help you along the way.

Materials Used:

• Yarn – any worsted weight yarn will do! The hearts pictured were made with Crafter’s Secret in Vintage Green, and  Paintbox Cotton Aran in Grass Green
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Stuffing
• Safety eyes – size 6mm
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Embroidery floss in black
• Optional – cardstock for printing gift tags

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• magic ring
• ch -chain
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• invdec – an alternative to the sc2tog stitch

Finished Size:

Using worsted/aran weight yarn and a size E/3.5mm crochet hook, the peas pictured measure 2″ across. The pea pod measures 6″ from one end to the other.

Gauge is not essential when crocheting this pattern. The finished size of your peas and pea pod will vary based on the yarn and hook you use, as well as your personal tension while crocheting.

Pattern Notes:

New to amigurumi? Not to worry! This pattern is beginner-friendly. If you can chain, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you can make these peas in a pod.

Both the peas and the pod are worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to help keep your place.

As you begin the peas, pay close attention to the photos when joining the top of the heart, as this can be a little bit tricky.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern:

Peas pattern (make 2)

R1: Using vintage green, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: Sc in each st around.

Do not fasten off. Pull yarn through last stitch and cut, leaving a tail. Repeat rounds 1-3, but this time do not cut the yarn. You now have the top curves of the heart.

R4: Holding the first curve next to the second curve, sc into any stitch of the first curve (mark with a stitch marker as the first stitch of this round).

Continue to sc around the first curve, leaving the final stitch unworked (when you reach the yarn tail, just hold it down and crochet over it for 1-2 stitches).

Connect to the second curve with a sc, again leaving one stitch unworked (so the two unworked stitches are across from each other), and then sc around the second curve. (22)

Use the yarn tail from the first curve to sew up the hole left by the skipped stitches in the middle of the curves.

R5: (Inc, 10 sc) 2x around. (24)
R6-R7: Sc in each st around.
R8: (6 sc, invdec) 3x around. (21)
R9: (5 sc, invdec) 3x around. (18)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 6 sts apart. Start stuffing.

R10: (4 sc, invdec) 3x around. (15)
R11: (3 sc, invdec) 3x around. (12) Finish stuffing completely.
R12: (2 sc, invdec) 3x around. (9)

Fasten off, using yarn needle to pull tightly through final stitches to close completely (for extra pointers, see this guide to fastening off amigurumi). Weave in ends.

Mouth

To add a mouth, use black embroidery thread and your yarn needle. Bring the needle from the back to the front of the pea, to the stitch where you would like the mouth to start. Leave a small tail of thread hanging in the back of the pea to secure later.

Embroider two lines that meet in a mouth shape, as pictured, then bring the needle from front to back to the same point where your first tail hangs. Tie the ends together and use your needle to pull the knot and remaining thread inside.

pea Pod pattern

R1: Using Grass Green and leaving a long tail, ch 33. Sc in 2nd ch from hook (mark this stitch with stitch marker) and in next 30 sts. Inc in last ch. Turning and working on the opposite side of the chain, 31 sc, inc. (66)
R2: (32 sc, inc) 2x around. (68)
R3-R6: Sc in each st around.
R7: (15 sc, invdec) 4x around. (64)
R8: (14 sc, invdec) 4x around. (60)
R9: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Pinch this end of the pod, and using your yarn tail and yarn needle, sew 4-5 stitches together. On the opposite end, use the tail from your beginning chain, and sew 2-3 stitches together. Weave in all ends on the inside of the pea pod.

Tendrils (Make 2)

To make the curly tendrils, using Grass Green, ch 13.
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, curling as you go. Fasten off, using yarn tails and yarn needle to sew to one end of the pea pod.

Leaf

Using Grass Green, ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, then hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sl st back down the chain. Turning and working up the other side of the chain, sl st, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc. Sl st in the top of the leaf to fasten off. Weave in top yarn end. Use beginning yarn tail to sew to top of pea pod.

Finishing Up

All that’s left to do is add your peas to your pod! If you’d like to add a gift tag too, the PDF is linked below.

Gift Tags:

This printable is sized for standard 8.5 x 11″ printer paper or cardstock (I used this light brown cardstock). There are three different tags, with two of each printed on a page.

I love a good pun, so you’ll see options for “You make me so hap-pea!”, “Peas be my valentine”, and of course, “We’re two peas in a pod”. Just click the link below to download the free printable PDF.

I hope you enjoyed making your own amigurumi valentine with this free crochet peas in a pod pattern! If you’d like to see more free patterns, take a look at these popular picks.

No time to crochet your peas in a pod today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Crocheting these hearts for Valentine’s Day is a sweet way to add that handmade, nostalgic touch to your home. Whenever I put up crochet decorations around my house, I always think about my grandma (and her intricate doilies!).

This crochet granny heart pattern works up so quickly and is easy to make into all kinds of different projects. You can make multiple hearts and string them up as a garland, use them as Valentine coasters, or even applique onto another project like a blanket. Ready to get started?

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Free Crochet Granny Heart Pattern

If you’ve ever crocheted granny squares, you’ll pick up this pattern in no time. You’ll love the way these crochet hearts are granny-square inspired but look fresh and modern too!

Materials Used:

• Yarn – any worsted weight yarn will do! The hearts pictured were made with Paintbox Cotton Aran (colors pictured: Blush Pink, Bubblegum Pink, Lipstick Pink, Pillar Red)
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Blocking board and pins (optional)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• ch -chain
• ch-sp – chain space
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• tr – triple crochet

Finished Size:

The hearts pictured measure about 4.25″ across and 3.75″ from top to bottom (using a size E/3.5mm hook and cotton yarn). Your hearts’ size will vary based on your personal tension while crocheting, as well as the yarn and hook you use.

Pattern Notes:

Some crocheters flip their work from front to back with each round of a granny square. I did not turn my work over with this pattern – all rounds are worked with one side as the front and one side as the back.

Chain stitches count as double crochets (and are always marked in the pattern).

You can use any yarn you like for this pattern, but your results will vary a bit depending on the fiber you choose. I love the way these granny hearts look made in cotton yarn because of its crisp definition. Acrylic or wool yarns will give you a less defined, softer look.

I made the hearts pictured here in various shades of pink and red for a bit of an ombre effect. You could try making yours in light pastels, classic Valentine’s red, pink, and white, or even using white for the final round, like a valentine trimmed with a doily – remember those?

Finally, blocking isn’t essential for this pattern, but I find it makes the hearts lie flatter and relaxes the stitches enough to show more definition. Specific blocking directions can be found at the end of the pattern.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Granny Heart Pattern:

Chain 5 and sl st to form a ring.

Round 1

Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Into the ring, work 2 dc, ch 2.
Then, (3 dc, ch 2) 3x into ring.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 2

Sl st across tops of sts (2 dc from previous round) to first ch-sp. Sl st in ch-sp.
Ch 3 (counts as dc).
Into the first ch-sp, work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1.
Then, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next three ch-sp.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 3

Loosely sl st in the next 4 sts (into 2 dc, a ch-sp, and the next dc from the previous round).
Skip next 2 sts, then (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) into next ch-sp.
Skip next 2 sts (2 dc from previous round) and sc in next 3 sts (into 1 dc, a ch-sp, and the
next dc from the previous round).

Skip next 2 sts (2 dc from previous round), then (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in next ch-sp space.
Skip next 2 sts (two dc’s from previous round), then slip st in top of dc.
Leave remaining sts of this round unworked.

Round 4

Ch 3 (counts as dc).
8 dc down one side, 2 dc in bottom ch-sp, then 9 dc up other side.
Then, 2 dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 tr in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next st,
sc in next st. This completes the first curved “peak” of the heart.
Sl st where the low point between “peaks” will be.
Then, sc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 2 tr in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in each of
next 3 sts.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 5

Ch 1. Sc around entire heart, with 2 sc at the bottom point of the heart, and 1 sl st at top of the heart in the middle of the two curves.

Fastening off

To fasten off, you can sl st into the top of the beginning ch 1. Alternatively, you can try the “invisible finish” method.

To do this, after completing the last stitch of your last round, do not slip stitch. Pull yarn a few inches through the last stitch and cut the yarn. Thread it onto your yarn needle.

Skip the next stitch. Then insert your yarn needle from front to back into the following stitch (threading the yarn needle under both the front and back loops of this stitch).

Next, bring your yarn needle up and insert it between the front and back loops of the last stitch of the final round. Finally, pull the yarn through from front to back until it resembles a stitch (don’t pull too tightly but don’t leave it too loose either). The invisible finish method is pictured at the bottom of this blog post.

Weave in all your loose ends securely on the backside of the heart and trim.

Finishing Up

Blocking:

While blocking isn’t essential for this pattern, I find it relaxes the stitches a bit and helps the hearts to lie flatter.

To do this, first get the hearts wet (I use a spray bottle but you can fully soak them if you prefer). Then, pin them to a blocking board, very slightly stretching the hearts into their proper shape. If your blocking board has grids, you can use the lines to pin each heart evenly.

Once the hearts are completely dry, unpin them and they’ll be ready for use!

Garland Instructions:

If you’d like to make your hearts into a granny heart garland, first start by crocheting a chain to the length you would like your garland to be.

Next, to make loops on the ends of your chain, sl st in the 7th ch from your hook. Fasten off, weaving in that end. Then, use your beginning yarn tail to make a loop at the other end of the chain, weaving in that end as well.

Lastly, weave the chain through the tops of your hearts, as pictured below. Hang and enjoy!

And there you have it! I hope you love your finished result. What will you do with your hearts?

If you liked this free granny square heart pattern, try some of these free Valentine crochet patterns too!

No time to crochet today? Save to Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Granny Heart Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Whether you’re a beginner or have lots of amigurumi experience, we all need to know – what’s the best way to make these amigurumi color changes? And what gives you the cleanest, most seamless results?

I dove into the most common methods for changing colors in amigurumi and have the results for you below. Take a look at each one and see which method is your favorite! I hope you find some new techniques to level up your stripe game.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

What’s Unique about Changing Colors in Amigurumi?

Amigurumi is almost always worked in the round, as opposed to working in rows.

When crocheting in rounds, you have two choices at the end of each round. You can slip stitch and chain 1 to start the new round. However, this will give your work a seam.

Or, you can crochet “in the round”. This means when finishing one round, you just keep going. You start each new round by working into the first stitch of the previous round (this is one reason why stitch markers are so handy).

This method is great for creating a seamless look, because the rounds are essentially spirals, but it does create some issues with color changes. The last stitch of one round is a step “below” the first stitch of the next round, so color changes have a little step or jog.

No color change in the round perfectly eliminates this…only joined rounds can do that. You can also try this method of cutting, but it’s too fussy for me when crocheting multiple stripes. So let’s dive into some common no-cut techniques.

Changing Colors in Amigurumi

When crocheting in rows, it’s common to change colors simply by finishing a stitch with one color, then yarning over and pulling up a new loop with the new color. But this isn’t necessarily the best method to use when crocheting amigurumi.

Let’s look at four alternatives so you can pick the method you like best. They’re listed in order from least to most difficult (as I see it).

1. The Traditional Color Change

This is the first way I learned to change color in the round, and I find it to be the easiest. When finishing a round in one color, with the last two loops of the last stitch on your hook, drop the first color and yarn over and finish the stitch with the new color. Then continue, beginning the new round with the new color.

PROS

• Fairly easy
• Allows you to continue to crochet at your normal pace and tension
• Closely matches the method used in other types of crochet

CONS

• Leaves a “jog” due to being worked in a spiral round
• Can look uneven, especially between rounds

2. The Slip Stitch Method

To make the color transition a little bit smoother, you could try the slip stitch method. Repeat the same steps above for the traditional color change (finishing the last stitch with the new color). Then, begin the new round with a loose slip stitch instead of a single crochet.

This counts as a the first stitch of the new round, and results in a less severe jog between colors (but it is still present).

PROS

• Gives a less noticeable jog than previous methods
• Still fairly quick and easy to execute

cons

• Still leaves a slight jog
• Slip stitches can be tighter, and thus harder to work into when you begin the next round
• Still has a jagged, uneven look between rounds (not a problem if you like this look)

3. The Back Loops Only Method

Another option for changing colors in amigurumi is to work the new color into the back loops only (BLO) of the next round. The cleanest technique for this is to work one round of slip stitches into the back loops, and then another round of single crochets into the back loops of those slip stitches.

PROS

• Eliminates the jagged look between rounds
• Super clean lines
• Gives more texture to stripes (from the remaining front loop)

CONS

• Does not eliminate the jog
• You may not want the additional texture from the remaining front loops
• Can affect the round count and size of finished object

4. Half Color Changes

This is the most complicated of all the color change methods. Here are the steps: change to the new color as described in option #1 above, so the new color is on your hook. For each single crochet of the new round – insert hook, pull up a loop in the previous color, yarn over in the new color and finish the stitch. Repeat around. Then complete the next round in the new color.

PROS

• Eliminates the jagged look between rounds
• Super clean lines

CONS

• Much more complicated than other methods
• Takes more concentration and thus, more time
• Using both strands of yarn pulls the round below so that it indents a little
• Can make you adjust round count
• Does not eliminate the color jog

Final Thoughts

So which method is my favorite for changing colors in amigurumi? That just depends on the project! If there are minimal color changes that can be hidden by placing them towards the back of the toy, I just use the Traditional method.

But if the backs of the stripes are showing, and there are lots of them, I think the Half Color Change method gives the cleanest, most polished result.

Honestly, color changes in amigurumi really come down to trial and error, and seeing what methods you like the best. And when possible, sew your pieces together so that the color changes face inward. Problem solved!

Try it for yourself and let me know what you prefer in the comments below! In case my stitches look different than what you’re used to, I do all my amigurumi work with the yarn under method. I describe both yarn over and yarn under in detail in this blog post if you’d like to learn more!

No time to try this today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Changing Colors in Amigurumi: A Step by Step Guide appeared first on Crochet to Play.

There are so many types of granny squares to choose from. And then once you choose a granny square pattern, you have almost limitless color combinations you can use. All that variety can be fun, but also a little overwhelming! So how do you begin to pick a granny square color palette?

I recently made a granny square blanket of my own, so today I’m sharing all about it. Let’s dig into the thought process behind granny square color combinations (and I’ll spill all the details about my blanket at the end of this post so you can re-create it if you’d like)!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

First Things First

Choose Your Granny Square Pattern

Before you can decide on your granny square blanket’s color palette, you should first pick out the type of granny squares you’ll be making. That way you’ll know how many colors are possible for each square.

Some blankets, like this beautiful Cozy Days Daisy Blanket by All About Ami, repeat the exact same color combination for each granny square in the blanket. But if you’re here reading this, you probably want to crochet a blanket with more of a patchwork look – maybe like this Hygge Burst Blanket by Nautikrall.

Do a quick search on Pinterest or Ravelry and you’ll find more than enough granny square patterns to choose from!

Determine How Many Colors are Needed

Once you’ve picked out your granny square style, you’re ready to determine how many colors you need for your blanket.

You may be crocheting an entire granny square with one color, then combining different colors of squares into a patchwork blanket. In that case, you’ll want to determine how many total squares you’ll need for your blanket and how many colors you want to repeat.

Alternatively, you may want multiple colors per square. For example, many granny squares are made with four rounds, so if you’re using a different color per round, that would be four colors per square. If you use an additional color for the border between squares, you could potentially have a fifth color.

Choosing Your Color Palette

Have you ever seen a granny square blanket and thought “that is the prettiest thing I’ve ever seen!” or unfortunately, “those colors don’t go together at all!”. Some of this can be attributed to personal taste, but a lot of what’s visually attractive can be traced to actual design principles.

Color Theory

The Basics of Color Theory

Remember color theory from art class? If it’s been a while, I’ll give you a quick refresher. Color theory is the study of the relationships between colors.

The color wheel maps the color spectrum onto a circular wheel and was first developed by Sir Isaac Newton in 1666, Cool huh?

Colors are divided into categories – primary, secondary, and tertiary. Within those categories, there are also shades and tints of each color when combined with white or black.

Primary colors are red, blue, and yellow and are the basis for all other colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and purple and are made by combining two primary colors. Tertiary colors are a combination of a primary and a secondary color (like red-orange, blue-purple, or yellow-green).

Using Color Theory for Crochet

What does all this have to do with choosing a granny square color palette? More than you’d think! Knowing how to choose colors that are harmonious and pleasing to the eye is key to making good color decisions.

Color evokes feeling, often without us even realizing it. Neutrals can be calming, earth tones can feel homey, cool colors can be serene, and warm colors can be energetic or vibrant.

In general, reds, oranges, and yellows are warm colors and blues, purples, and greens are cool colors. But there are also warmer and cooler variations within each color that can play into design as well.

Some color combinations are more visually appealing than others. Analogous colors are side by side on the color wheel. Complementary colors are direct opposites on the color wheel. These kinds of combinations are each attractive in their own way.

If you’d like to explore color theory more to help you choose your granny square color palette, I love this tool on Canva’s website! You can choose any color in the color wheel and find its complements and other combinations.

Principals of Design

You may never have thought of it this way, but I believe that crochet is art, and art has a a certain set of guidelines that make it “work”. There are 7 (some say 12) principles of design that can guide us (either consciously or unconsciously) as we put together our crochet blankets.

These principles of design are emphasis, balance, contrast, repetition, proportion, movement, and white space/negative space.

I’m going to touch on just a few that I think help most with choosing a granny square color palette for a blanket.

Repetition

Using the same granny square over and over to make rows of a blanket automatically puts repetition into your blanket design. But you can add to this by repeating colors in a patterned way.

For example, if you’re crocheting a patchwork blanket, you might pick 6 colors that you repeat multiple times. Or if you’re making multi-colored granny squares, you might repeat the same color combinations in a patterned, repeated way (more on this below about my own blanket).

Repetition unifies the look of your blanket and helps it make sense to the eye.

Balance

A balanced design is a harmonious design. Darker colors are weightier and lighter colors are, well, lighter. Balancing the contrast of dark and light can be an important part of your color choices.

Symmetry is a part of balance, as well. If you’re repeating the same granny square, you’ll naturally end up with some symmetry (same number of squares in each row, etc). You can add to this symmetry by the placement of your colors – placing them at even intervals, for example.

White Space

White space (or negative space) is by defitinion, empty. Our eyes naturally travel across a design, and white space allows the eye to rest. It gives a visual break.

Lucky for us, granny square blankets have the perfect opportunity for white space – the joined border between squares! This is why designers so often choose a neutral color for their border. It serves as white space.

Other Sources of Inspiration

Color inspiration can come from a variety of sources. Are you making your granny square blanket for a particular room of the house? If so, you might want to choose colors based on the colors you already have in that room.

Or maybe you’re making a blanket for a certain season – cozy, warm earth tones for fall, or bright reds and greens for Christmas.

If you’re starting with a blank canvas and need inspiration, I love searching Pinterest for color palettes. Just type in “warm, neutral color palette” or “beachy summer color palette”…or anything you like!

You might also like the Crochet Studio app. You can search for your favorite yarn brands and colors, create color palettes, and even generate blanket patterns. Canva has lots of color palettes you can explore for granny square color ideas as well.

My Granny Square Blanket

I recently went through this entire color-choosing process for my own granny square blanket. I absolutely love how it turned out and want to share the colors and layout with you too!

For the blanket pictured in this pattern, I chose the Sunburst Granny Square and used the pattern written in this blog post by Katie Gets Creative. Don’t you love the way her granny square pattern looks like flowers?

I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton yarn in seven colors – Rosy, Warm Blush, Gold, Serene Spa, Stonewash Blue, French Lilac, and White, plus Parchment as my joining border.

I had to experiment a little bit to figure out how I was going to use ALL these colors. After all, I chose a granny square pattern with only four rounds, but had bought way more yarn than that! My first attempts had almost too much variation, and I couldn’t pull together a cohesive look.

Granny Square Color Palette and Layout

After some trial and error, I decided to crochet the center of every square in Gold, and then use either Rosy or Warm Blush for the second round. This provided some needed unity and repetition for the entire blanket.

Then I used either Serene Spa, Stonewash Blue, French Lilac, and Rosy or Warm Blush for the third round of each square. This left me with eight possible color combinations. I used half of the combinations for odd rows and the other half for even rows.

Finally, I used White for the 4th round of every square.

The table below outlines the way I ordered these granny square color combinations (listing the colors for rows 2 and 3 of each square). Each row has 10 total squares, and I repeated these two rows for a total of 12 rows.

• P – Pink
• R – Rosy
• B – Blue
• Pur – Purple
• G – Green

Wrapping Up

Finally, I used the join-as-you-go method of joining my squares, as shown in this video tutorial by Nautikrall Crochet. I used the color Parchment for this, then added a quick border with this lovely berry stitch pattern.

And there you have it! When you see a beautiful crochet granny square blanket, chances are someone carefully and thoughtfully designed its look with color and placement of the squares.

I hope you feel empowered and informed to try it yourself! For more helpful crochet resources, click here.

No time to crochet today? Save this on Pinterest for when you need it!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Granny Square Color Palette appeared first on Crochet to Play.

A while back I bought this pack of cute mini skeins of yarn. I loved the variety of colors and that each one was actually made of two colors of yarn blended together. Variegated yarns can change a project more than you’d think!

Years later I’m still finding ways to use up these little balls of yarn, this time for a pumpkin garland. I used lighter and darker shades of orange for the pumpkins and bright green for the stem, but you can get creative and use whatever yarn and colors you like.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Once you make your crochet pumpkin garland, you can use it to decorate a mantle, hang it on a shelf in your office, across a mirror, or anywhere you like! I ended up hanging mine across the range hood in our kitchen and it looks so cute.

Crochet Pumpkin Garland Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Scheepjes Stonewashed in Coral, Morganite, and Malachite
• Size F/3.75mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Optional – twine for hanging

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch

Finished size:

Each mini pumpkin in my garland measures just 1.5″ wide, using a size F/3.75mm hook and sport weight (2) yarn. I made my garland pretty short, making only 11 total pumpkins. You can make yours as long or short as you want.

Pattern Notes:

It’s important to note that the pumpkins pictured in my garland were made with sport weight yarn. Using lightweight yarn like this will give you mini pumpkins for your garland.

You can use any yarn you’d like for this pattern (just make sure to adjust your hook size accordingly). Heavier weight yarns will give you larger, bulkier pumpkins.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place.

In the very last round, you’ll switch yarn colors from orange to green. To switch colors, before finishing the last stitch with the old color, with the last 2 loops on the hook, drop the old color, pick up the new color, yarn over and complete the stitch. Now the new color will be on your hook and you can begin the next stitch.

Crochet Pumpkin Garland Pattern:

R1: 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: 2 sl st, 1 inc, (2 sc, inc) 2x, 1 sl st, 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) 2x. (24 – sl sts count as sts)

Continue to sl st 2 more times, switching to green yarn on the last sl st. Then ch 5 and sl st into first chain to form a little loop. Fasten off, weaving in all ends in back.

Finishing Up

Once you’ve made all the pumpkins you’d like, you have a few options for stringing them together.

If you’d like to stick with using yarn, you could simply pick the yarn color you’d like and crochet a chain the length of garland you need. You can pull the chain through the looped pumpkin stems.

I chose to use some twine I had here at home. I wanted it to be a bit thinner so I did divide it and just use half the plies in the twine.

Then I cut the twine the length I wanted and tied it around each pumpkin loop.

And that does it! I hope this mini crochet pumpkin garland pattern helped you add a little fall warmth to your home.

If you’d like to try some more of my free crochet patterns, you can check them out right here.

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All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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