I love keeping plants in the house, and although I’ve killed a few, I’ve gotten much better! Plant pot covers can be a fun way to add a little more of your personality around your home.

This snail planter pattern is perfect for the tiny 2″ pots you’ll often find in the floral section of the grocery store, but you can adapt it for larger pots as well.

Snails aren’t always the friendliest to outdoor gardens, but there’s something about them that makes me smile (slugs, not so much). And this amigurumi snail is pretty cute, if you ask me.

This pattern will walk you through making your own pot cover and snail, step by step. Ready to get started?

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Plant Holder Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Paintbox Cotton Aran in Light Caramel and Peach Orange
• Size G/4.0mm and E/3.5mm crochet hooks
• Stitch marker
• Stuffing
• Safety eyes – size 6mm
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Embroidery thread in black

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• invdec – invisible decrease (an alternative to the sc2tog stitch)
• BLO – back loops only

Finished size:

Gauge is not essential for this pattern, but it is helpful to have tight, even stitches.

With my own tension, for reference, the first six rounds of the pot cover measure about 2 1/4″ in diameter, using cotton aran-weight yarn and a size G/4.0mm crochet hook.

The size of your plant pot cover will vary based on your personal tension while crocheting, as well as the yarn and hook you use. For example, acrylic yarn will work up slightly larger than cotton yarn, even at the same yarn weight.

The finished snail planter, once the snail and shells are attached, is about 5″ tall and 4.5″ wide.

Pattern Notes:

This pattern uses continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to keep your place.

Whenever I’m crocheting in amigurumi style, like the snail in this pattern, I use the yarn under stitch rather than the yarn over. It makes my stitches tighter and gives them the “x” look that I prefer.

If this is unfamiliar to you, I go into a lot of detail about yarning over vs. under in this post, so check it out if you’d like to learn more.

If this crochet plant holder pattern isn’t quite the right size for your plant pot, no problem. You can adjust the size of the pot base by continuing to increase after Round 5, or stopping at an earlier round if the base in the pattern in too big.

Adjust the number of rounds to fit your plant’s base, using multiples of six, then continue up the sides by crocheting in the back loops only and then single crocheting around. This post about increasing circles may help you adjust the size of your base.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Snail Plant Holder Pattern:

Pot Cover

R1: Using Peach Orange and size G/4.00mm hook, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) 6x around. (30)

If you are adjusting this pattern to accommodate a larger pot, continue increasing at this point until you’ve achieved the size needed (see Pattern Notes).

R6: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R7-R12: Sc in each st around.
R13: (4 sc, inc) 6x around. (36)
R14-R15: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, weaving in ends. Set aside.

Antennae (make 2)

R1: Using Light Caramel and size E/3.5mm hook, 5 sc into a magic ring. (5)
R2: Sc in each st around.
R3: Invdec, 3 sc. (4)
R4-R5: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Set aside.

Snail

R1: Using Light Caramel and size G/4.00mm hook, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (3 sc, inc) 3x around. (15)
R4: (4 sc, inc) 3x around. (18)
R5: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R6-R8: Sc in each st around.
R9: 3 sc, 1 invdec, 3 sc, 4 invdec, 3 sc, 1 invdec, 3 sc. (18)
R10: 6 sc, 3 invdec, 6 sc. (15)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 6 sts apart.

Using black embroidery thread, embroider two lines that meet to form a mouth shape, pictured at rounds 7 and 8. Tie beginning and ending tails of thread together and stuff inside head.

To add the antennae (technically called tentacles on a snail, if you can believe it), use your yarn needle and the long tail left after the last antennae round. Attach on top of head, at rounds 2-3, then weave in ends inside head.

Stuff the head and neck as you go on (but only stuff neck through about round 20, then stop stuffing).

R11-R13: Sc in each st around.
R14: (4 sc, inc) 3x around. (18)
R15-30: Sc in each st around. Stop stuffing at Round 20
R31: (4 sc, invdec) 3x around. (15)
R32: (3 sc, invdec) 3x around. (12)
R33: (2 sc, invdec) 3x around. (9)

Fasten off, using yarn tail and yarn needle to weave through front loops of final round of stitches. Pull together and weave in end.

Snail Shell (make 2)

R1: Using Peach Orange and size G/4.00mm hook, sc 6 into a magic ring. (6)
R2: (Sc, inc) 3x around. (9)
R3-R57: Sc in each st around. Stuff very lightly as you go.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail.

Putting It All Together

Once you have crocheted the pot cover, snail, and two spirals for the shell, it’s time to sew everything together so you can add your plant.

Step One: Sewing the Snail to the Pot Cover

First, cut a long length of yarn in Light Caramel. The snail will be sewn to the pot cover, with its head sticking out above it and the flat end of its body underneath.

Place the snail along the pot as described above, then bring your yarn needle from inside the pot outward, sewing the snail to the pot along the top of the pot and along where the back of the snail and the pot meet.

Then, continue to sew the flat bottom of the snail’s body to the bottom of the pot. Once the entire snail is attached, weave in your ends.

You’ll notice that without any weight in the pot cover, the snail tips forward, but once you put a plant inside it will stay upright.

Step Two: Winding the Shells

Thread the long tail from the end of the shell (which looks like a tube) onto your yarn needle. Sew end of tube closed.

Wind tube up counterclockwise into a tight shell shape. Secure this shape by weaving your yarn needle from one side of the shell to the other. Try to weave well into the middle of the stitches so the yarn doesn’t show.

Repeat this along multiple points so the shell keeps its shape. Do not cut yarn tail or weave in.

Repeat with second shell.

Step Three: Sewing the Shells to the Pot Cover

Place one shell on one side of the pot, matching up the top of the shell with the top of the pot cover.

Using your yarn needle and remaining yarn tail (or cut new length of yarn as needed), first sew the top of the shell to the top edge of the pot cover to match them up, then sew around the perimeter of the shell, attaching securely to the pot cover.

Repeat on other side. Weave in all remaining ends.

Step Four: Add a Plant!

Once you’ve got your snail and shells added to your pot cover, it’s time to add a plant. Then you can keep this sweet snail on a kitchen windowsill, an office desk, and give it as a springtime gift to a friend.

It’s sure to make people smile (the snail planter pictured in this blog post was quickly adopted by my tween daughter)!

I hope you enjoyed making your crochet plant holder with this free pattern. If you’re looking for more free patterns, take a look around here!

No time to crochet your pot cover today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Plant Holder Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

I absolutely love weddings. It’s so special to witness two people be joined together, and we often want to honor these new beginnings with a handmade gift or an heirloom item for the occasion.

Below you’ll find gifts you can crochet for the happy couple, crochet patterns for the bride and groom (and bridal party), and ideas for special touches for the ceremony and decor.

The majority of these patterns are free, but I’ve included some paid patterns as well. I’m sure you’ll find lots of crochet wedding patterns you’ll love!!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Patterns for Wedding Gifts:

First up, let’s look at some patterns that are perfect for gifting to the bride and groom.

1. Mr. and Mrs. Pillow by Orsak Originals

This sweet pillow uses the tapestry crochet method to create the words “Mr. & Mrs”. It would look adorable in the newlywed’s entryway or bedroom and would surely be a favorite gift.

If you’re unfamiliar with tapestry crochet, not to worry. The designer of this beginner-friendly pattern includes a graph and tutorial images to walk you through it step by step.

2. Harbor Crochet Hand Towels by Stitching Together

Hand towels are the perfect practical kitchen gift. Wouldn’t these Harbor Crochet Hand Towels be sweet in a gift basket, paired with some hand soap, a dish brush, and other kitchen goodies?

Jessica from Stitching Together designed this free pattern using simple stitches that beginners can pick up quickly.

I love the colors she chose, but you could use any combination of colors tailored to the bride and groom’s taste for a simple, thoughtful gift.

3. Amigurumi Bride and Groom by Crochet to Play

Here’s an amigurumi pattern from my own Etsy shop – these Bride and Groom dolls. The best part about this pattern? It’s completely customizable!

You can pick from three dress styles, different hairstyles, the type of tie, or even give the groom a beard. The possibilities are endless!

Take a look here and scroll down to the reviews to see how other crocheters have personalized these dolls. So cute, right?!

4. Monogram Pillow by Two Little Birds

Emily from Two Little Birds always brings us crochet designs with modern farmhouse style, like these monogram pillows!

Choose two contrasting colors (I love the neutrals she shows) and follow her tapestry crochet method to make the couple a wedding gift with their new, shared initial.

Not only would this make a thoughtful handmade gift, but it would be personalized for the couple too. Perfect!

5. Double Wedding Ring Heirloom Blanket by Jennifer Olivarez

Have you ever seen a traditional wedding ring quilt? They are made with interlocking rings (symbolizing marriage) and are just beautiful. Wedding quilts are often made by mothers and grandmothers for their children as they marry.

Jennifer Olivarez designed a crochet version of this concept and it is stunning. Yes, this project would be a labor of love, but what a priceless gift this would be.

You can find this Heirloom Wedding Ring Quilt here on the Annie’s Attic website.

6. Wildflower Dishcloths by Daisy Farm Crafts

Dishcloths aren’t the fanciest of gifts, but don’t we all need them? And in these vibrant colors, this Wildflower dishcloth pattern by Daisy Farm Crafts makes even the humble dishcloth quite eye catching.

The free pattern uses beginner-friendly stitches (single crochet, double crochet, slip stitches, and decreases) for a great, textured result. Add these dishcloths to a gift basket for a sweet wedding gift.

Crochet Patterns for the Bride and Groom

If you’re a bride or groom looking for ways to incorporate crochet into your style for the big day, these patterns are for you.

1. Gardenia Shawl by Maria Bittner

With its open, lacy texture and scalloped edge, this Gardenia Shawl is delicate and beautiful. It would be gorgeous for a winter wedding or an outdoor evening ceremony!

The free pattern uses crochet thread to achieve the shawl’s lightweight drape. It would look beautiful in white or ivory, but with different yarn, it could also add a pop of color if that’s the look you have in mind.

2. Groom’s Floral Boutonniere by Nazanin S. Fard

Fresh flowers are always beautiful for a wedding, but what if the flowers you want are out of season or over budget? Why not crochet your own?

This free, versatile pattern includes directions for roses, carnations, and leaves. It includes arrangements for both a crochet bridal bouquet and crochet boutonniere or nosegay. What a great way to add a personal touch to the big day!

3. Bridal Bouquet Wrap by Amanda Saladin

This bridal bouquet wrap is a lovely (and practical!) way to hold the bride’s flowers together on the big day. You could make one wrap for the bride in white, and multiple for the bridesmaids’ bouquets to match the color of their dresses.

I love the pearl button details, but you could use whatever style button fits your wedding theme to personalize this even more.

The bouquet wrap pattern uses easy stitches and works up quickly. Find it for free right here.

4. Wrapped in Lace Bridal Garter by Kirsten Holloway

Sometimes a design is so detailed that at first glance, it’s hard to believe it’s handmade. This bridal garter fits that description!

To achieve this lacy, delicate effect, the free pattern uses crochet thread and a small hook. Ribbon, a flower, and a pearl are included to add to the garter’s beauty. Perfect for a bride on her wedding day.

5. May Roses by Attic 24

Lucy from Attic 24 has this free rose pattern that can be repeated and combined to make a beautiful crochet bouquet.

The pattern includes instructions for both the roses and some leaves. Placing them together with pearls and ribbon, as shown here, makes for a lovely arrangement.

6. Wrapped in Lace Fingerless Gloves by Kirsten Holloway

Here we have another gorgeous design by Kirsten Holloway – these lace fingerless gloves! Using lightweight crochet thread, ribbons, and pearls, these gloves add a vintage, romantic touch to accessorize the bride.

The free pattern is available here and uses combinations of simple stitches to achieve the romantic, lacy look you see. The stitches used provide some stretch to fit many hand sizes.

7. Floral Hair Clip by Kirsten Holloway

These delicate floral hair clips would be a sweet touch for a bride or her bridesmaids on the big day. This free pattern works up quickly and attaches to bobby pins for easy use.

Try different colors, hook sizes, and pearls or beads to personalize this pattern to your wedding style.

Crochet Patterns for the Wedding Party

Next up, we have designs especially for the other participants in the wedding. Check out some of these beautiful ideas!

1. Elegant Floral Headband by Amanda Saladin

Can’t you just imagine this headband on a flower girl in a garden wedding? Or on the bride or bridesmaids in a whimsical, boho style wedding?

With its dainty flowers and trailing leaves, this headband is sure to bring some smiles. Customize this free pattern with your own wedding colors to add your handmade touch.

2. Floral Drift Shawl by Made by Gootie

If you’re having a wedding in the cooler months, or just a cooler time of day, what better way to warm up your bridesmaids than with this stunning Floral Drift Shawl!

This lovely shawl is worked in double crochet rows, followed by a wide band of floral stitches. The combination of stitches makes it a winner! Best of all, the pattern is free.

3. Heart’s Desire Ring Bearer Pillow by Kathryn White

This darling ring bearer pillow reminds me of my grandma’s crochet days – lacy, almost doily-like crochet worked in the round and then added to a pillow.

This free pattern is graceful and gets the look just right. Make it for a family heirloom that little ring bearers can use in many more weddings for years to come.

4. Secret Garden Tote Bag by Kirsten Holloway

The Secret Garden Tote Bag, with its feminine stitch repeats and sturdy handles, is a delightful design.

While you might not think of a tote bag for bridesmaids, how sweet would it be to make these for yours and add personalized gifts inside as a thank you for their commitment to your wedding?

The pattern is versatile and free. Find it right here.

Crochet Patterns for the Wedding Ceremony and Decor

Finally, let’s take a look at some patterns you could crochet to add special touches and decorations to your wedding ceremony and venue.

1. Hope Lace Bible Cover by Kirsten Holloway

If you’re having a loved one recite a special Bible verse during your ceremony, this crochet Bible cover would be a great way to add some sentimental charm to the moment.

The free pattern uses crochet thread and a small hook to achieve the delicate, lacy look.

2. Snowflake Heart Ornament by Golden Lucy Crafts

Are you having a winter wedding? These little Snowflake Hearts would make a cute decoration strung together or as part of table centerpieces (or even little favors).

The pattern for these hearts is free, and uses starch to keep the hearts’ shape. Find it here.

3. Boho Hearts Bunting by Lesia Little Adventure

If you love boho style and are looking for a way to decorate your wedding venue, try this bunting pattern!

Made with DK weight yarn, this beginner level pattern includes both photo and written directions. There’s even a free video tutorial included here. Have fun!

4. Little Penguin Wedding Couple by Foxy Crochet Design

With their darling details – top hat, bridal veil, and bow tie – these little penguins are an adorable pattern for a wedding. Put them by the guest book to get some smiles!

The pattern includes both written and photo instructions, with lots of step by step support. Find it here.

5. Wedding Favor Bags by HanJan Crochet

Last but not least, take a look at these little favor bags. They’re simple and sophisticated, and can be made with just a bit of crochet and hessian cloth. Pop some candy or mints inside and you have a lovely gift for your wedding guests.

You can find the free pattern for these wedding favor pouches here.

And there you have it! I hope you found lots of inspiration for ways to add a crochet touch to your big day with these crochet patterns for weddings. Let me know in the comments what you’re planning!

If you’d like to look at more free crochet patterns, try these.

No time to crochet today? Save this post on Pinterest for when you need it!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Patterns for Weddings appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Maybe it’s because Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, but I wanted to put a sweet spin on this design by making the peas into hearts. They’re so cute and easy, beginners and advanced crocheters alike will love this pattern.

You can make the peas and pea pod by themselves, but if you’d like to turn them into a personalized valentine gift, I’ve included a free printable you can download as well. Add one of the tags to your finished work and it makes an adorable valentine. Hope you love it!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Free Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern

This crochet pattern is written in amigurumi style. If you’re new to amigurumi, there are plenty of tips to help you along the way.

Materials Used:

• Yarn – any worsted weight yarn will do! The hearts pictured were made with Crafter’s Secret in Vintage Green, and  Paintbox Cotton Aran in Grass Green
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Stuffing
• Safety eyes – size 6mm
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Embroidery floss in black
• Optional – cardstock for printing gift tags

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• magic ring
• ch -chain
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• invdec – an alternative to the sc2tog stitch

Finished Size:

Using worsted/aran weight yarn and a size E/3.5mm crochet hook, the peas pictured measure 2″ across. The pea pod measures 6″ from one end to the other.

Gauge is not essential when crocheting this pattern. The finished size of your peas and pea pod will vary based on the yarn and hook you use, as well as your personal tension while crocheting.

Pattern Notes:

New to amigurumi? Not to worry! This pattern is beginner-friendly. If you can chain, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you can make these peas in a pod.

Both the peas and the pod are worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to help keep your place.

As you begin the peas, pay close attention to the photos when joining the top of the heart, as this can be a little bit tricky.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern:

Peas pattern (make 2)

R1: Using vintage green, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: Sc in each st around.

Do not fasten off. Pull yarn through last stitch and cut, leaving a tail. Repeat rounds 1-3, but this time do not cut the yarn. You now have the top curves of the heart.

R4: Holding the first curve next to the second curve, sc into any stitch of the first curve (mark with a stitch marker as the first stitch of this round).

Continue to sc around the first curve, leaving the final stitch unworked (when you reach the yarn tail, just hold it down and crochet over it for 1-2 stitches).

Connect to the second curve with a sc, again leaving one stitch unworked (so the two unworked stitches are across from each other), and then sc around the second curve. (22)

Use the yarn tail from the first curve to sew up the hole left by the skipped stitches in the middle of the curves.

R5: (Inc, 10 sc) 2x around. (24)
R6-R7: Sc in each st around.
R8: (6 sc, invdec) 3x around. (21)
R9: (5 sc, invdec) 3x around. (18)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 6 sts apart. Start stuffing.

R10: (4 sc, invdec) 3x around. (15)
R11: (3 sc, invdec) 3x around. (12) Finish stuffing completely.
R12: (2 sc, invdec) 3x around. (9)

Fasten off, using yarn needle to pull tightly through final stitches to close completely (for extra pointers, see this guide to fastening off amigurumi). Weave in ends.

Mouth

To add a mouth, use black embroidery thread and your yarn needle. Bring the needle from the back to the front of the pea, to the stitch where you would like the mouth to start. Leave a small tail of thread hanging in the back of the pea to secure later.

Embroider two lines that meet in a mouth shape, as pictured, then bring the needle from front to back to the same point where your first tail hangs. Tie the ends together and use your needle to pull the knot and remaining thread inside.

pea Pod pattern

R1: Using Grass Green and leaving a long tail, ch 33. Sc in 2nd ch from hook (mark this stitch with stitch marker) and in next 30 sts. Inc in last ch. Turning and working on the opposite side of the chain, 31 sc, inc. (66)
R2: (32 sc, inc) 2x around. (68)
R3-R6: Sc in each st around.
R7: (15 sc, invdec) 4x around. (64)
R8: (14 sc, invdec) 4x around. (60)
R9: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Pinch this end of the pod, and using your yarn tail and yarn needle, sew 4-5 stitches together. On the opposite end, use the tail from your beginning chain, and sew 2-3 stitches together. Weave in all ends on the inside of the pea pod.

Tendrils (Make 2)

To make the curly tendrils, using Grass Green, ch 13.
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, curling as you go. Fasten off, using yarn tails and yarn needle to sew to one end of the pea pod.

Leaf

Using Grass Green, ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, then hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sl st back down the chain. Turning and working up the other side of the chain, sl st, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc. Sl st in the top of the leaf to fasten off. Weave in top yarn end. Use beginning yarn tail to sew to top of pea pod.

Finishing Up

All that’s left to do is add your peas to your pod! If you’d like to add a gift tag too, the PDF is linked below.

Gift Tags:

This printable is sized for standard 8.5 x 11″ printer paper or cardstock (I used this light brown cardstock). There are three different tags, with two of each printed on a page.

I love a good pun, so you’ll see options for “You make me so hap-pea!”, “Peas be my valentine”, and of course, “We’re two peas in a pod”. Just click the link below to download the free printable PDF.

I hope you enjoyed making your own amigurumi valentine with this free crochet peas in a pod pattern! If you’d like to see more free patterns, take a look at these popular picks.

No time to crochet your peas in a pod today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Peas in a Pod Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Crocheting these hearts for Valentine’s Day is a sweet way to add that handmade, nostalgic touch to your home. Whenever I put up crochet decorations around my house, I always think about my grandma (and her intricate doilies!).

This crochet granny heart pattern works up so quickly and is easy to make into all kinds of different projects. You can make multiple hearts and string them up as a garland, use them as Valentine coasters, or even applique onto another project like a blanket. Ready to get started?

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Free Crochet Granny Heart Pattern

If you’ve ever crocheted granny squares, you’ll pick up this pattern in no time. You’ll love the way these crochet hearts are granny-square inspired but look fresh and modern too!

Materials Used:

• Yarn – any worsted weight yarn will do! The hearts pictured were made with Paintbox Cotton Aran (colors pictured: Blush Pink, Bubblegum Pink, Lipstick Pink, Pillar Red)
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Blocking board and pins (optional)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• ch -chain
• ch-sp – chain space
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• tr – triple crochet

Finished Size:

The hearts pictured measure about 4.25″ across and 3.75″ from top to bottom (using a size E/3.5mm hook and cotton yarn). Your hearts’ size will vary based on your personal tension while crocheting, as well as the yarn and hook you use.

Pattern Notes:

Some crocheters flip their work from front to back with each round of a granny square. I did not turn my work over with this pattern – all rounds are worked with one side as the front and one side as the back.

Chain stitches count as double crochets (and are always marked in the pattern).

You can use any yarn you like for this pattern, but your results will vary a bit depending on the fiber you choose. I love the way these granny hearts look made in cotton yarn because of its crisp definition. Acrylic or wool yarns will give you a less defined, softer look.

I made the hearts pictured here in various shades of pink and red for a bit of an ombre effect. You could try making yours in light pastels, classic Valentine’s red, pink, and white, or even using white for the final round, like a valentine trimmed with a doily – remember those?

Finally, blocking isn’t essential for this pattern, but I find it makes the hearts lie flatter and relaxes the stitches enough to show more definition. Specific blocking directions can be found at the end of the pattern.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Granny Heart Pattern:

Chain 5 and sl st to form a ring.

Round 1

Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Into the ring, work 2 dc, ch 2.
Then, (3 dc, ch 2) 3x into ring.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 2

Sl st across tops of sts (2 dc from previous round) to first ch-sp. Sl st in ch-sp.
Ch 3 (counts as dc).
Into the first ch-sp, work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1.
Then, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next three ch-sp.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 3

Loosely sl st in the next 4 sts (into 2 dc, a ch-sp, and the next dc from the previous round).
Skip next 2 sts, then (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) into next ch-sp.
Skip next 2 sts (2 dc from previous round) and sc in next 3 sts (into 1 dc, a ch-sp, and the
next dc from the previous round).

Skip next 2 sts (2 dc from previous round), then (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in next ch-sp space.
Skip next 2 sts (two dc’s from previous round), then slip st in top of dc.
Leave remaining sts of this round unworked.

Round 4

Ch 3 (counts as dc).
8 dc down one side, 2 dc in bottom ch-sp, then 9 dc up other side.
Then, 2 dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 tr in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next st,
sc in next st. This completes the first curved “peak” of the heart.
Sl st where the low point between “peaks” will be.
Then, sc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 2 tr in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in each of
next 3 sts.

Sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 5

Ch 1. Sc around entire heart, with 2 sc at the bottom point of the heart, and 1 sl st at top of the heart in the middle of the two curves.

Fastening off

To fasten off, you can sl st into the top of the beginning ch 1. Alternatively, you can try the “invisible finish” method.

To do this, after completing the last stitch of your last round, do not slip stitch. Pull yarn a few inches through the last stitch and cut the yarn. Thread it onto your yarn needle.

Skip the next stitch. Then insert your yarn needle from front to back into the following stitch (threading the yarn needle under both the front and back loops of this stitch).

Next, bring your yarn needle up and insert it between the front and back loops of the last stitch of the final round. Finally, pull the yarn through from front to back until it resembles a stitch (don’t pull too tightly but don’t leave it too loose either). The invisible finish method is pictured at the bottom of this blog post.

Weave in all your loose ends securely on the backside of the heart and trim.

Finishing Up

Blocking:

While blocking isn’t essential for this pattern, I find it relaxes the stitches a bit and helps the hearts to lie flatter.

To do this, first get the hearts wet (I use a spray bottle but you can fully soak them if you prefer). Then, pin them to a blocking board, very slightly stretching the hearts into their proper shape. If your blocking board has grids, you can use the lines to pin each heart evenly.

Once the hearts are completely dry, unpin them and they’ll be ready for use!

Garland Instructions:

If you’d like to make your hearts into a granny heart garland, first start by crocheting a chain to the length you would like your garland to be.

Next, to make loops on the ends of your chain, sl st in the 7th ch from your hook. Fasten off, weaving in that end. Then, use your beginning yarn tail to make a loop at the other end of the chain, weaving in that end as well.

Lastly, weave the chain through the tops of your hearts, as pictured below. Hang and enjoy!

And there you have it! I hope you love your finished result. What will you do with your hearts?

If you liked this free granny square heart pattern, try some of these free Valentine crochet patterns too!

No time to crochet today? Save to Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Granny Heart Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

A while back I bought this pack of cute mini skeins of yarn. I loved the variety of colors and that each one was actually made of two colors of yarn blended together. Variegated yarns can change a project more than you’d think!

Years later I’m still finding ways to use up these little balls of yarn, this time for a pumpkin garland. I used lighter and darker shades of orange for the pumpkins and bright green for the stem, but you can get creative and use whatever yarn and colors you like.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Once you make your crochet pumpkin garland, you can use it to decorate a mantle, hang it on a shelf in your office, across a mirror, or anywhere you like! I ended up hanging mine across the range hood in our kitchen and it looks so cute.

Crochet Pumpkin Garland Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Scheepjes Stonewashed in Coral, Morganite, and Malachite
• Size F/3.75mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Optional – twine for hanging

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch

Finished size:

Each mini pumpkin in my garland measures just 1.5″ wide, using a size F/3.75mm hook and sport weight (2) yarn. I made my garland pretty short, making only 11 total pumpkins. You can make yours as long or short as you want.

Pattern Notes:

It’s important to note that the pumpkins pictured in my garland were made with sport weight yarn. Using lightweight yarn like this will give you mini pumpkins for your garland.

You can use any yarn you’d like for this pattern (just make sure to adjust your hook size accordingly). Heavier weight yarns will give you larger, bulkier pumpkins.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place.

In the very last round, you’ll switch yarn colors from orange to green. To switch colors, before finishing the last stitch with the old color, with the last 2 loops on the hook, drop the old color, pick up the new color, yarn over and complete the stitch. Now the new color will be on your hook and you can begin the next stitch.

Crochet Pumpkin Garland Pattern:

R1: 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: 2 sl st, 1 inc, (2 sc, inc) 2x, 1 sl st, 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) 2x. (24 – sl sts count as sts)

Continue to sl st 2 more times, switching to green yarn on the last sl st. Then ch 5 and sl st into first chain to form a little loop. Fasten off, weaving in all ends in back.

Finishing Up

Once you’ve made all the pumpkins you’d like, you have a few options for stringing them together.

If you’d like to stick with using yarn, you could simply pick the yarn color you’d like and crochet a chain the length of garland you need. You can pull the chain through the looped pumpkin stems.

I chose to use some twine I had here at home. I wanted it to be a bit thinner so I did divide it and just use half the plies in the twine.

Then I cut the twine the length I wanted and tied it around each pumpkin loop.

And that does it! I hope this mini crochet pumpkin garland pattern helped you add a little fall warmth to your home.

If you’d like to try some more of my free crochet patterns, you can check them out right here.

No time to crochet today? Save this post for later on Pinterest!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Pumpkin Garland Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Thanksgiving is a big day in our home, and one of my very favorite holidays. I love having an entire day devoted to slowing down, enjoying a big meal with family, and spending time together repeating sweet traditions. And of course, no Thanksgiving is complete without pumpkin pie!

The crochet pumpkin pie in the pattern below is small, so it works up really quickly. You could easily make a few to give to your Thanksgiving guests as party favors, incorporate them into your place settings, or even give to younger kids to use in a play kitchen.

Ready to make your own? Let’s get started!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Pumpkin Pie Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Yarn Bee Yarn ID in Red Brick and Cafe Au Lait and I Love This Yarn in Ivory (available at Hobby Lobby)
• Size F/3.75mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Stuffing
• Plastic canvas (for base of pie)
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only

Finished size:

My pumpkin pie measures about 4″ in diameter x 3″ tall, using a size F/3.75mm hook and worsted weight (4) yarn. Yours may vary in size based on the yarn you use and your personal tension while crocheting.

Pattern Notes:

Most of this pattern is worked in spiral rounds. Use a stitch marker to keep your place.

The crochet pumpkin pie pictured in this post was made with worsted weight (4) yarn. You could easily substitute another worsted weight yarn for a similar result. If you’d like a more plush look, you could try a bulky yarn like chenille. If you go this route, you’ll want to size up your hook quite a bit.

You’ll see something called “plastic canvas” referenced in the materials list and and in the pattern. This mesh screen can be cut to fit inside your pie. I find this helpful for any amigurumi where you’ll be stuffing it but don’t want the base to be rounded by the stuffing. You could also insert a piece of cardboard cut to size and add some poly pellets for weight.

You may want to try the “perfect circle” technique when crocheting both the pumpkin top and the pie crust base. Making increase stitches in regular intervals can give a more hexagon than circle shape, so try this tutorial to adjust for a more circular shape.

Crochet Pumpkin Pie Pattern:

Pie Top/Filling

R1: Using dark orange, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) 6x around. (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) 6x around. (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) 6x around. (42)
R8: Sc in each st around.

You can fasten off by traditionally slip stitching into the next stitch.

Alternatively, you can fasten off by pulling a few inches of yarn through last stitch, then cutting the yarn. Skipping one stitch, use your yarn needle to insert the yarn tail into the next stitch from front to back. Then bring the needle up and insert between the front and back loops of final stitch of Round 8. This “perfect circle finish” technique is detailed in this blog post.

Weave in yarn end under a few stitches to secure. Set pumpkin pie top aside for now.

Pie Crust

R1: Using tan, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) 6x around. (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) 6x around. (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) 6x around. (42)
R8: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R9-R11: Sc in each st around. Do not fasten off.

Cut a circle of plastic canvas to fit inside the bottom of the pie crust. This step isn’t essential, but the mesh screen keeps the base of the pie flat even after the stuffing is added. You could also use cardboard.

Next, add a little bit of stuffing, saving some to tuck in as the pie top is added.

Putting it all together & finishing the crust

R1: Place the pie top on top of the open pie crust. Using the last loop from Round 10 of the crust, single crochet through the last rounds of both layers all around, tucking in stuffing as you go. (42)
R2: (Sc, hdc, sc in next stitch. Sl st in next st) 21x around.

Fasten off, weaving in end.

Whipped Cream

R1: Using cream, ch 16. Work 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (30)
Fasten off, leaving long tail.

You’ll probably find that your yarn is curling into a coil shape already. Wind this coil so that it looks how you want it (I wrapped mine in three spiral layers to look liked swirled whipped cream). Then use one yarn tail and your yarn needle to sew through the layers of the coil so that it keeps it shape.

Place the whipped cream on top of the crochet pumpkin pie. Then use the remaining yarn tail and your yarn needle to sew it securely to the middle of the pie.

Weave in all remaining ends and trim.

And that does it! I hope you love your crochet pumpkin pie. This pattern is simple and works up so quickly, you could make one for each of your Thanksgiving guests.

Love free patterns? You can find lots more right here.

No time to crochet today? Save this on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Pumpkin Pie appeared first on Crochet to Play.

But once I got started on those daisies (you can find the pattern here), I craved a little bit more variety. Looking at the yarn colors I had on hand, I knew I had to design a crochet sunflower bookmark pattern as well!

This pattern works up really quickly, so you can make multiple bookmarks as gifts or for whatever you’d like.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Getting Started

You can make this crochet sunflower bookmark pattern with any yarn you’d like. I made it with both sport weight and worsted weight yarn, and preferred the sport weight a bit more. I liked the final size it gave me and the super petite stitches. But both options are great.

The yarn pictured is Scheepjes Stonewashed, which is a lightweight cotton yarn that uses two-toned strands to give it its unique look.

Whichever yarn weight you use, just adjust your hook size up or down accordingly. You really can’t go wrong with this pattern, so feel free so use whichever yarn and hook you have handy!

Crochet Sunflower Bookmark Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Scheepjes Stonewashed in “Yellow Jasper”, “Brown Agate” and “Canada Jade” (these are sport weight yarns)
• Size 3.0mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Optional: blocking board and pins

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only

Gauge/Finished Size:

Gauge is not essential for this pattern. With my own tension, for reference, the finished flower measures about 2″ in diameter. The entire bookmark measures about 10″ from top to bottom.

Pattern Notes:

Chain stitches do not count towards the stitch count at the end of the each row or round. Each row or round’s total stitches are marked in parentheses.

I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place when working in the round on the sunflower.

These stitches are small (especially if using sport weight yarn and 3.00mm hook like me), so just watch your stitch placement carefully as you go.

Sunflower Bookmark Crochet Pattern:

Flower

R1: Using brown (pictured: Scheepjes “Brown Agate”), ch 1, then 6 sc into a magic ring. Sl st in first ch to join. Ch 1, turn. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. Sl st to join. Ch 1, turn. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. Sl st to join. Ch 1, turn. (18)
R4: Switching to yellow (pictured: Scheepjes “Yellow Jasper”), work in BLO for entire round. In first stitch, *work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sl st in next st. Repeat from * 8x around for 9 total petals. Fasten off after last sl st. Weave in all ends.

Leaf/Stem

R1: Using green, (pictured: Scheepjes “Canada Jade”), ch 53. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 44 chains. To make the leaf at the end of the chain, work this series of stitches into the last 7 chains: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Turning and working into the opposite side of the chain, work that series of sts again: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Fasten off, weaving in ends.

Additional Leaves

R1: Using green (pictured: Scheepjes “Canada Jade”), ch 8. Sl st in 2nd chain from hook, then sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Turning and working into the opposite side of the chain, work that series of sts again: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Sl st in “top” of leaf to fasten off.

Make as many additional leaves as desired. Do not weave in ends just yet.

Putting It All Together

Wet Blocking

I recommend wet blocking the separate parts of your bookmark before sewing them together – the sunflower, the stem, and any additional leaves you’ve made to attach. Wet blocking helps relax your stitches and keep the stem from being too curly (even with blocking, I find the stem curls a bit, but not too much).

To do this, I sprayed each part of the bookmark with a water bottle and then pinned them to a small foam blocking board (see materials list for a link to what I use).

Sewing

Once your bookmark pieces have fully dried and you have unpinned them, it’s time to sew everything together.

First, place the top of the stem behind the sunflower. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn (the same yarn used to make the stem), sew the stem to the back of the sunflower.

You may need to sew through the middle of the sunflower’s stitches so your yarn doesn’t show on the front side. A bent-tipped yarn needle can really help with this.

Then, sew any leaves you’d like to add to the side of the stem. Use your yarn needle and the yarn ends from the leaves to sew them wherever you’d like them to be on the stem. Then weave in all ends.

I hope you enjoyed making your sunflower bookmark! If you liked this project, check out this daisy bookmark pattern as well.

No time to crochet your sunflower bookmark today? Save this post on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Sunflower Bookmark Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Why a crochet bookmark? I got to thinking about bookmarks because of a Bible study I just joined. The study is on the book of Ephesians, but I’m also reading a book about Revelation on my own. I’ve found myself needing a new bookmark to easily flip back and forth in my Bible.

Once I got started with this idea, I actually designed not one but two bookmarks – a daisy and a sunflower! Sometimes when I get an idea, I have to try it a few different ways. You can find the sunflower bookmark pattern here.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Getting Started

You can make this crochet daisy bookmark with any yarn you have on hand. I tried out using both sport weight and worsted weight yarn. I ended up liking the result with sport weight yarn a little more, especially because the Scheepjes Stonewashed yarn colors have a two-toned look, but both options turned out really cute.

Whichever yarn weight you use, just adjust your hook size up or down accordingly. You really can’t go wrong with this pattern, so feel free so use whichever yarn and hook you have handy!

Free Crochet Daisy Bookmark Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Ricorumi in “Cream” and Scheepjes Stonewashed in “Yellow Jasper” and “New Jade” (these are sport weight yarns)
• Size 3.0mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Optional: blocking board and pins

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sl st- slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only

Gauge/Finished Size:

Gauge is not essential for this pattern. With my own tension, for reference, the finished daisy flower measures about 2″ in diameter. The entire bookmark measures about 10″ from top to bottom.

Pattern Notes:

Chain stitches do not count towards the stitch count at the end of each row or round. Each row or round’s total stitches are marked in parentheses.

I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place when working in the round on the daisy.

These stitches are small (especially if you’re using sport weight yarn and 3.00mm hook like me), so just watch your stitch placement carefully as you go.

Daisy Bookmark Crochet Pattern:

Flower

R1: Using yellow (pictured: Scheepjes “Yellow Jasper“), into a magic ring, ch 2, then 9 dc. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (9)
R2: Switching to white (pictured: Ricorumi “Cream”), ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, (sc in next st, ch 7, sc in same st) 9x around for 9 total petals. Sl st in ch 1 of this round to fasten off. Weave in all ends on the backside of the daisy.

Leaf/Stem

R1: Using green, (pictured: Scheepjes “New Jade”), ch 53. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 44 chains. To make the leaf at the end of the chain, work this series of stitches into the last 7 chains: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Turning and working into the opposite side of the chain, work that series of sts again: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Fasten off, weaving in ends.

Additional Leaves

R1: Using green (pictured: Scheepjes “New Jade”), ch 8. Sl st in 2nd chain from hook, then sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Turning and working into the opposite side of the chain, work that series of sts again: sl st, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. Sl st in “top” of leaf to fasten off.

Make as many additional leaves as desired. Do not weave in ends just yet.

Putting It All Together

Wet Blocking

I recommend wet blocking the separate parts of your bookmark before sewing them together – the daisy, the stem, and any additional leaves you’ve made to attach. Wet blocking helps relax your stitches and keep the stem from being too curly (even with blocking, I find the stem curls a bit, but not too much).

To do this, I sprayed each part of the bookmark with a water bottle and then pinned them to a small foam blocking board (see materials list for a link to what I use).

Sewing

Once your bookmark pieces have fully dried and you have unpinned them, it’s time to sew everything together.

First, place the top of the stem behind the daisy. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn (the same yarn used to make the stem), sew the stem to the back of the daisy.

You may need to sew through the middle of the daisy’s stitches so your yarn doesn’t show on the front side. A bent-tipped yarn needle can really help with this.

Then, sew any leaves you’d like to add to the side of the stem. Use your yarn needle and the yarn ends from the leaves to sew them wherever you’d like them to be on the stem. Then weave in all ends.

And that does it! I hope you liked making your daisy bookmark. The pattern is quick enough that you can make a lot, just like I did. After getting this pattern and the sunflower version just right, I made a bunch for the ladies in my Bible study and added some of our favorite verses from our time together.

No time to crochet your daisy bookmark today? Pin in to Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Daisy Bookmark Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Most of these crochet baskets have the same basic structure – a round base with sides that curve upward, plus a carrying handle. Aside from that, each basket’s details are a bit different. The colors, yarns, and varied designs make them all unique.

Take a look at all of the crochet Easter basket patterns below and pick out a pattern to make for your little egg-hunters. It may be hard to choose but I’m sure you’ll find a favorite!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

1. Bunny Easter Basket by Crochet to Play

First up, it’s my newest design – this Bunny Easter Basket! I absolutely loved making this basket and writing up the pattern for you to follow. The stitches used are fairly simple (it’s worked with mostly single crochets), but the ears and face make it anything but plain.

The pattern uses two strands of yarn held at the same time, which gives the stitches added thickness and increases the basket’s sturdiness. The handle is made by crocheting over pipe cleaners.

These two techniques give this basket just enough structure to keep it from getting too floppy. There are more detailed instructions on both methods in the pattern.

You can find this Bunny Easter Basket pattern right here on the blog. I know you’ll love it!

2. Crochet Easter Egg Basket by Whistle & Ivy

The egg design stitched into the sides of this Crochet Easter Egg Basket is fantastic, isn’t it? The pattern, by Whistle and Ivy, uses single crochet stitches in two colors to achieve this colorwork effect (and the blog post includes helpful charts to walk you through it).

Many of the stitches are worked in the back loop only, which gives the cool textured look you see pictured. I also love the way this basket has two handles instead of one! It reminds me more of a bag than a basket and would be perfect for little hands this Easter.

3. Classic Easter Basket by Yarn + Chai

The beautiful pastel colors of this Classic Easter Basket by Yarn + Chai caught my eye right away. These colors combined with the pop of white in the stripes and handle really do make it a perfect, classic Easter basket!

This pattern uses double-stranded yarn balls as well as plastic canvas (like this) to give it structure. It’s made with crossed single crochets and has some rounds worked into the 3rd loop, so if either of these are new to you, video tutorials may help.

I imagine this basket would look amazing in a variety of color combinations and would get lots of smiles on Easter morning!

4. Velvet Easter Bunny Basket by Craftsy Amore

This Velvet Easter Bunny Basket is a little smaller than the others so far, but extra adorable. It’s made with bulky velvet yarn, but I imagine it could be made with any plush or chenille yarn for a similar result.

I can just picture a row of these little bunny baskets made in a bunch of spring colors, all lined up with goodies on Easter. The little ears and tail (not pictured here but very cute, trust me) make this basket a great choice!

5. Mini Easter Basket by Hello Yellow Yarn

I don’t know why, but the quickest way to make something even cuter is to make a mini version of it. Hello Yellow Yarn has done just that with her adorable Mini Easter Basket pattern. Isn’t it perfect for holding a few little chocolate eggs?

The best part – these mini baskets work up super quickly so you can easily make as many as you’d like before Easter. I think this would be a great pattern for using up scrap yarn as well!

6. Basic Easter Basket by Delia Creates

Delia from Delia Creates has designed the ideal basket shape with her Basic Easter Basket pattern (which I think is anything but basic). Sure to be an instant favorite, this one even uses beginner-friendly stitches.

The Basic Easter Basket pattern is worked up with four strands of worsted weight yarn at once, so it uses a fairly large crochet hook. It’s also worked in the round, so make sure and use a stitch marker to keep track of your place.

This seems like a basket you could take out year after year and it would still look perfect. It could blend in with a variety of Easter décor styles as well.

7. Bunny Baskets by Curious Papaya

Aren’t these bunny baskets adorable? The Curious Papaya designed them with super bulky yarn called “tube yarn”, which reminds me a bit of t-shirt yarn. In the cream and pink colors, they look perfect for spring.

The vertical-looking rows are created using the knit stitch, a crochet stitch that ends up looking like something knit. Add the facial features and ears and you’ve got a darling bunny basket for Easter morning.

8. Flower Easter Basket by Nana’s Crafty Home

I love the clever way spring flowers are incorporated into this basket. Did you notice right away that the flowers are buttons? What a fun idea!

This Flower Easter Basket uses bulky yarn and is worked up with beginner friendly single crochet stitches (with many rounds worked into the back loop for texture).

The flower stems are added with surface crochet, with the cute floral buttons sewn on top. No experience with surface crochet? No problem! A video tutorial is available to help.

9. Crochet Bunny Basket by Yarn Th3ory

There’s so much to love about this Crochet Bunny Basket by Yarn Th3ory – the long handle, adorable brown and cream colorwork, and that fluffy tail! Oh, and the floppy ears too. I’m a sucker for floppy bunny ears.

The pattern uses the waistcoat stitch for another knit-look option and cotton cord yarn for thickness and sturdiness. You’ll also want a pom-pom maker or to learn how to make your own pom-poms for that cute tail.

Try this pattern and you’re sure to make someone’s day.

10. Crochet Easter Basket Pattern by Desert Blossom Crafts

The Crochet Easter Basket pattern by Dessert Blossom Crafts combines two colors – a main basket color and a complementary second color for a round of puff stitches (that almost looks like flowers).

It’s constructed with mostly half double crochet stitches, plus the puff stitches. And there’s a video if you need help.

The best part? This sweet pattern is available in a larger and a mini size so you can choose the size that best meets your needs!

11. Bunny Egg Basket Pattern by Yarnspirations

When it comes to crochet Easter basket patterns, Yarnspirations has it down. Their website has this lovely Bunny Egg Basket pattern available as complete crochet kit, but you can also download the pattern for free without a purchase.

I love the contrast between the brown base color and the blue and pink bunnies worked into the design through colorwork. That chocolate brown definitely reminds me of Easter candy!

With the addition of those little cotton tails, these baskets couldn’t be any cuter. Give the pattern a try!

12. Chickadee Easter Basket by The Lavender Chair

You can’t go wrong with a sweet little face on an Easter basket, right? The button eyes and little beak make The Chickadee Easter Basket by The Lavender Chair extra adorable.

This basket can be made with any yellow worsted weight yarn you have on hand. It’s worked up with mostly half double crochet stitches.

If you love little spring chicks, give this basket a try!

13. Easter Basket Pattern by Fosbas Designs

Isn’t this a pretty little basket? This Easter Basket pattern by Fosbas designs looks darling in a pastel color with the flower on the side.

This pattern uses the 3rd loop to achieve the look you see. If you’ve never crocheted in the 3rd loop, there are many video tutorials on YouTube that can help.

Other than that, if you can half double crochet, you can make this beautiful basket!

14. Spiked Stitch Crochet Basket by Jen Hayes Designs

Last but not least, don’t you just love the look of the Spiked Stitch Crochet Basket? Jen Hayes Creations designed this basket with single crochets, plus the spike stitch which gives it its cool texture.

I love the combination of dark and pastel yarn used here, but you could use absolutely any spring color combination to make this design your own.

If you have some worsted weight yarn and can single crochet, you can definitely make this cute basket!

Well, what did you think of these crochet Easter basket patterns? Did you find a pattern for making your own Easter basket this year? I’m sure it will be hard to choose just one!

If you’d like to see more Easter patterns, check these out.

Let me know in the comments what you’ve decided to make and in what colors!

No time to start today? Save on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Easter Basket Patterns appeared first on Crochet to Play.

I’ve had Easter baskets on my “to make” list for some time, with little sketches in my idea book and everything. This Crochet Bunny Easter Basket was first on my list, and I know you’re going to love it. It’s got floppy ears, the sweetest little face, and best of all is easy to make.

In addition to the bunny basket, I also designed coordinating lamb and chick baskets (just as cute if you ask me!). The Crochet Bunny Easter Basket pattern is free here in this blog post, but if you’re looking for all three designs, I’ll link them here for you too.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Getting Started

Some crochet designs take a lot of trial and error to get just right and others flow and come together almost effortlessly. This Crochet Bunny Easter Basket came together like just like that. It’s extra adorable but actually really simple!

I made my bunny basket using light brown as the main color, but this pattern would be just as cute worked up in white, cream, or even some fun pastel colors.

You’ll see a specific yarn list below, but feel free to use whatever yarn you like (although I would stick with using two strands of worsted weight yarn, as explained in the pattern).

My one yarn suggestion is not to use your softest, slipperiest yarn. Baskets do best with structure, so some of the more inexpensive (or even rougher) yarns out there are just perfect for this project.

Crochet Bunny Easter Basket Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – for the main basket and ears, I used Yarn Bee “Yarn ID” in Fawn and I Love This Yarn in Cherry Blossom, with two strands held together (see pattern notes below)
  For the nose and eyes, I used Yarn Bee “Yarn ID” in Himalayan Sea Salt and I Love This Yarn in Black
• Size K/6.50mm and size E/3.5mm crochet hooks
• Yarn needle
• Stitch Marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Pipe cleaners (I used Creatology brand but this is a similar color)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• invdec – invisible decrease (an alternative to sc2tog)
• sl st- slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only
• FLO – front loops only

Gauge/Finished Size:

Gauge is not essential for this pattern, but it is helpful to have tight, even stitches. With my own tension, for reference, the first 10 rounds measure about 6.5“ in diameter. If you want to make a bigger or smaller basket, you can adjust the increase rounds (rounds 1-10). The basket pictured is about 5″ tall, 9″ tall including the handle.

Pattern Notes:

If you’re a beginner to basket making, you may feel a little intimidated by the structure of it. But if you can single crochet, you can absolutely follow this pattern!

The basket gets its structure from crocheting with two strands of yarn at the same time. Each skein of yarn has two ends – one wrapped around the outside and one tucked into the inside of the skein.

Using two strands not only gives the basket some sturdiness, but it provides a nice texture too.

To make this easier, I took both ends of yarn (the end you can see on the outside and the end you have to find and pull from the inside) and wound them together into one ball.

The Crochet Bunny Easter Basket pattern is written with continuous rounds, so I recommend using a stitch marker at the beginning of every round to keep your place. You may find, however, that working in continuous rounds gives your stitches more “slant” than you would like.

There are a couple of ways to address this problem (only if it bugs you, of course). One way is to use joined rounds instead of continuous rounds. If you use this method, just slip stitch, chain one, and turn at the end of each round. Your basket will end up with a slight seam.

The other way to reduce the slant of the stitches is to try yarning under instead of yarning over. I go into a lot of detail about yarning over vs under in this post, so check it out if you need more info.

The basket pictured uses my favorite combo – the yarn over/yarn under method (also discussed in this post). This method helps the stitches look more stacked than slanted.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Bunny Easter Basket Pattern:

Basket

R1: Using light brown yarn (see yarn list above), and holding two strands together, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) 6x around. (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) 6x around. (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) 6x around. (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) 6x around. (48)
R9: (7 sc, inc) 6x around. (54)
R10: (8 sc, inc) 6x around. (60)
R11: In BLO, sc in each st around.

R12-R15: Sc in each st around.
R16: (13 sc, invdec) 4x around. (56)
R17-R23: Sc in each st around.
R24: In FLO, sl st in each st around. Do not fasten off.

Handle

R1: With the last loop from Round 24 of the basket still on your hook, ch 28. Attach chain with a sl st to the other side of the basket – exactly halfway would be 28 sts. However, because the handle will be 3 stitches wide, attach your chain 26 stitches over, when counting across the back side of the basket. Ch 1, turn.
R2: Sc in each ch across. Attach with a sl st in the st next to your starting point. Ch 1, turn. (28)
R3: Holding pipe cleaner parallel with handle, sc in each st across and over pipe cleaner. Sl st to other side of basket. Sl st in next st as well. Ch 1, turn.
R4: Sc in each st across (optional: sc over an additional pipe cleaner for added structure). Sl st to attach.

Fasten off. If necessary, trim leftover pipe cleaner ends and weave in all yarn ends.

Ears (make 2)

R1: Using pink yarn (see yarn list above), and holding two strands together, chain 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 chains. 3 sc in last ch. Turn and continue to crochet on the other side of the chain – 9 sc, 1 inc. (23)
R2: Switching to light brown yarn, continue to work in the round – 1 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc. (27)
R3: 1 inc, 10 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 11 sc, 1 inc. (33, not counting the ch 1)

Fasten off, leaving a tail(s) for attaching. Weave in all other ends.

Attach ears on either side of the basket, sewing the top edge of each ear to the top edge of the basket, about 2 sts in front of the handle. Continue to sew down the sides of the ears, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down the ear. Weave in all ends.

Nose

Using light pink yarn and your yarn needle, embroider a V-shape centered between the ears. Then add a line going straight down.

Fill in the empty V until the nose has the fullness you like. Trace back over any lines you’d like to be thicker.

For reference, the nose on my bunny basket is centered between the ears with 5-6 stitches on each side. The top of my nose is about 6 rows down from the top of the basket and the bottom is about 4 rounds from the base of the basket. I traced back over the main lines at least 3 times for thickness.

Eyes (make 2)

R1: Using black yarn, and switching to your size E/3.5mm hook, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)

Sl st in first sc, then pull through and fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use yarn needle to attach eyes to basket.

For reference, the eyes on my bunny basket are about 5 rows down from the top of the basket. Each eye is centered between the side of the nose and the ear. Weave in all ends.

And that does it! I hope you enjoyed this pattern as inspiration for making your own sweet Bunny Basket.

Let me know in the comments what colors you chose and if you’ll be giving to someone as a gift for Easter morning. I think it’s the perfect size for little ones finding treats and Easter eggs in the backyard.

If you’d like to see more free crochet patterns, take a look here. Happy crocheting!

No time to crochet your Bunny Easter Basket today? Save it on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Bunny Easter Basket: Free Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.