Whether you’re a beginner or have lots of amigurumi experience, we all need to know – what’s the best way to make these amigurumi color changes? And what gives you the cleanest, most seamless results?

I dove into the most common methods for changing colors in amigurumi and have the results for you below. Take a look at each one and see which method is your favorite! I hope you find some new techniques to level up your stripe game.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

What’s Unique about Changing Colors in Amigurumi?

Amigurumi is almost always worked in the round, as opposed to working in rows.

When crocheting in rounds, you have two choices at the end of each round. You can slip stitch and chain 1 to start the new round. However, this will give your work a seam.

Or, you can crochet “in the round”. This means when finishing one round, you just keep going. You start each new round by working into the first stitch of the previous round (this is one reason why stitch markers are so handy).

This method is great for creating a seamless look, because the rounds are essentially spirals, but it does create some issues with color changes. The last stitch of one round is a step “below” the first stitch of the next round, so color changes have a little step or jog.

No color change in the round perfectly eliminates this…only joined rounds can do that. You can also try this method of cutting, but it’s too fussy for me when crocheting multiple stripes. So let’s dive into some common no-cut techniques.

Changing Colors in Amigurumi

When crocheting in rows, it’s common to change colors simply by finishing a stitch with one color, then yarning over and pulling up a new loop with the new color. But this isn’t necessarily the best method to use when crocheting amigurumi.

Let’s look at four alternatives so you can pick the method you like best. They’re listed in order from least to most difficult (as I see it).

1. The Traditional Color Change

This is the first way I learned to change color in the round, and I find it to be the easiest. When finishing a round in one color, with the last two loops of the last stitch on your hook, drop the first color and yarn over and finish the stitch with the new color. Then continue, beginning the new round with the new color.

PROS

• Fairly easy
• Allows you to continue to crochet at your normal pace and tension
• Closely matches the method used in other types of crochet

CONS

• Leaves a “jog” due to being worked in a spiral round
• Can look uneven, especially between rounds

2. The Slip Stitch Method

To make the color transition a little bit smoother, you could try the slip stitch method. Repeat the same steps above for the traditional color change (finishing the last stitch with the new color). Then, begin the new round with a loose slip stitch instead of a single crochet.

This counts as a the first stitch of the new round, and results in a less severe jog between colors (but it is still present).

PROS

• Gives a less noticeable jog than previous methods
• Still fairly quick and easy to execute

cons

• Still leaves a slight jog
• Slip stitches can be tighter, and thus harder to work into when you begin the next round
• Still has a jagged, uneven look between rounds (not a problem if you like this look)

3. The Back Loops Only Method

Another option for changing colors in amigurumi is to work the new color into the back loops only (BLO) of the next round. The cleanest technique for this is to work one round of slip stitches into the back loops, and then another round of single crochets into the back loops of those slip stitches.

PROS

• Eliminates the jagged look between rounds
• Super clean lines
• Gives more texture to stripes (from the remaining front loop)

CONS

• Does not eliminate the jog
• You may not want the additional texture from the remaining front loops
• Can affect the round count and size of finished object

4. Half Color Changes

This is the most complicated of all the color change methods. Here are the steps: change to the new color as described in option #1 above, so the new color is on your hook. For each single crochet of the new round – insert hook, pull up a loop in the previous color, yarn over in the new color and finish the stitch. Repeat around. Then complete the next round in the new color.

PROS

• Eliminates the jagged look between rounds
• Super clean lines

CONS

• Much more complicated than other methods
• Takes more concentration and thus, more time
• Using both strands of yarn pulls the round below so that it indents a little
• Can make you adjust round count
• Does not eliminate the color jog

Final Thoughts

So which method is my favorite for changing colors in amigurumi? That just depends on the project! If there are minimal color changes that can be hidden by placing them towards the back of the toy, I just use the Traditional method.

But if the backs of the stripes are showing, and there are lots of them, I think the Half Color Change method gives the cleanest, most polished result.

Honestly, color changes in amigurumi really come down to trial and error, and seeing what methods you like the best. And when possible, sew your pieces together so that the color changes face inward. Problem solved!

Try it for yourself and let me know what you prefer in the comments below! In case my stitches look different than what you’re used to, I do all my amigurumi work with the yarn under method. I describe both yarn over and yarn under in detail in this blog post if you’d like to learn more!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Changing Colors in Amigurumi: A Step by Step Guide appeared first on Crochet to Play.

You may come across crochet patterns that have you work in a circle when making coasters, rugs, stuffed toys, and baskets with a round base.

For example, this pumpkin pie pattern uses circles for the top and the base. Knowing how to crochet in a perfect circle will make your finished result that much better.

So how do you crochet a perfect circle? Keep reading for everything you need to know.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

The Basics

Working in Spiral Rounds

Crochet circles are made by using a series of increase stitches to make your work curve into a spiral that becomes a circle. Instead of working in rows, you work in rounds.

You may be used to joining these crochet rounds by working a slip stitch and then chaining one before starting the next round. Unfortunately, this creates a seam in your circle.

To avoid this seam, you have to crochet in continuous rounds. This means that instead of joining rounds, you work directly into the first stitch of the previous round when beginning the next round. Using a stitch marker will help you keep your place.

If you don’t already begin your circles with the magic ring, you’ll want to start, especially when trying the perfect circle technique. This video by Lauren of A Menagerie of Stitches can teach you about the magic ring.

The Math of Circles

I won’t make you go back to your school days of learning about pi and the diameter of circles, but it’s good to know that all crochet relies on math. To achieve a specific, predictable result, crocheters must use mathematical patterns. This especially applies when crocheting shapes, both 2D and 3D.

Crochet circles are created by working increases (two stitches instead of one) at regular intervals. Circles worked in single crochet most often use multiples of 6 or 8, while circles worked in half double crochet or double crochet use larger multiples of 10 or 12.

But…There’s a Problem

The issue with adding these increases in even, mathematical intervals is that the increases are all lined up. Why is this a problem? When the increases are stacked on top of each other round after round, little points begin to form.

So instead of crocheting a perfect circle, you may find you’ve crocheted more of a hexagon (or octagon, etc.). This becomes more pronounced as your circle grows.

This is even more exaggerated when you’re working tight single crochet stitches, like I so often do when making amigurumi.

The Solution

The solution to dealing with this shaping problem is to learn how to stagger your increases as you crochet each round of your circle.

Most crochet patterns are written with the increases either at the beginning or the end of a set of stitches. This leads to the flat sides and points.

You can fix this, however, by adjusting where you put your increases – alternating between the beginning and the middle of the stitch sets.

Let me show you what I mean. The table below shows a traditionally written crochet pattern on the left, with increases added at the end of every stitch set. On the right, you’ll see the perfect circle method.

You’ll notice the two methods are the same until round 4, when the increases start to move around for the perfect circle. Each increase is highlighted to help you see the pattern.

You can use this idea of staggering your increases for any size circle and for any set of multiples. Think of it like a formula, or a pattern, where you alternate where you put your increases.

The Invisible Finish

Once you’ve got this down, I’ve got one more tip for you to try. It’s called the crochet invisible finish. Have you heard of it?

When you’re finished with your circle and ready to fasten off, most tutorials will have you slip stitch into the next stitch, then pull through and cut the yarn. This method can leave a little “bump” where you fasten off.

The invisible finish uses your yarn tail to create a faux stitch, evening out the final look. To try it, follow these steps:

Step 1

After completing the last stitch of your last round, do not slip stitch. Pull yarn a few inches through the last stitch and cut the yarn. Thread it onto your yarn needle.

Step 2

Skip the next stitch. Then insert your yarn needle from front to back into the following stitch (threading the yarn needle under both the front and back loops of this stitch).

Step 3

Bring your yarn needle up and insert it between the front and back loops of the last stitch of the final round. Pull the yarn through from front to back until it resembles a stitch (don’t pull too tightly but don’t leave it too loose either).

Step 4

Pull yarn through and cut, weaving in end.

I hope you enjoyed learning about crocheting a perfect circle and the invisible finish. Want to keep learning new techniques? Try these free resources!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crocheting a Perfect Circle: a Step by Step Guide appeared first on Crochet to Play.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

First things first – there are no “bad” or “wrong” crochet hooks. What one crocheter may love, another may hate. The same person may love one brand of hooks for blankets, but not for amigurumi (hint: it’s me…more on that later).

What’s important is finding what works for you. I’ve tried a LOT of hooks and am here to help you sort out which hooks work well when making amigurumi (and which don’t).

Parts of a Crochet Hook

Before we get ahead of ourselves, here’s a quick refresher on the parts of a crochet hook. Different hook brands design these parts differently, and this has a big impact on how a hook works and feels.

Main parts of a crochet hook:

• Point/tip: the uppermost part of the hook that enters a stitch first
• Head: the top of the hook that actually “hooks” the yarn
• Throat/Neck: located between the head and the shaft; the yarn travels down the throat/neck to the shaft as a stitch is worked
• Shaft: where yarn loops rest as stitches are being worked
• Thumb rest: a slight groove or indentation in the hook, meant for resting one’s thumb
• Handle/Grip: the lowermost part of the hook, held by the rest of the hand

Important Considerations when Choosing a Hook

Let’s face it – the sheer number of hook brands and types available can be overwhelming. Here are a few things you’ll want to consider when choosing a hook for your next amigurumi project.

Size

Amigurumi typically requires a smaller hook size than other crochet projects. A smaller hook helps give you the tight, close stitches needed to keep your stuffing from showing.

A common amigurumi combination is DK weight yarn with a size D/3.25mm crochet. My personal preference is light worsted/aran weight yarn with a size E/3.5mm hook (the very bottom of this blog post has a chart about hook sizing that you may find helpful).

If you’re following a crochet pattern, the recommended hook size should be listed. You’ll want to choose a brand of hook that comes in the smaller size you’ll need.

Material

Crochet hooks come in a variety of materials. Which hook material is best for amigurumi? There’s no “right” answer, but it must slip in and out of your tight amigurumi stitches easily AND feel comfortable to you.

Here’s a bit more information about each type of hook material:

Aluminum

Aluminum hooks are made of the lightweight metal aluminum. The best aluminum hooks have treated metal that is incredibly smooth and has been anodized to be strong and durable. Smooth hooks are important for amigurumi, so aluminum is a great choice.

Many crocheters love aluminum hooks, but not necessarily aluminum handles. If the entire hook is aluminum, it may be uncomfortable in your hand. I’ll get more into this as we discuss the best and worst crochet hooks below.

Steel

Steel hooks are metal as well, and heavier than aluminum. They are very strong and durable, and most often come in the smallest hook sizes meant for crocheting with thread. Steel handles can be uncomfortable, however, and are not often used for amigurumi.

Plastic

Plastic hooks are a budget-friendly option, but have some drawbacks. While they’re mostly smooth, they can have little pits or bumps of plastic that stick up just enough to snag your yarn. They break more easily than other materials and aren’t particularly durable.

Wood

Wood hooks are some of the most beautiful around. They are usually lightweight and many crocheters like the feel of wood hooks in their hands.

Wood, however, does create more friction with the yarn. If you’re using a slippery fiber, like bamboo, and crocheting something with looser stitches, wood might be ideal.

But for amigurumi, especially if you’re using cotton yarn like I so often do, wood hooks feel like they get “stuck” and can slow you down.

Handle/Grip

In my opinion, a hook’s handle can really make or break it. How comfortable a hook feels in your hand depends on its handle, and comfort is important when crocheting amigurumi.

Why? Because we tend to crochet amigurumi with tighter tension, and that can strain our hands more quickly.

Some hooks have a thin, aluminum handle. Others have a soft, rubbery grip. Still others have large, rounded, or specially carved handles. These all affect the way the hook feels in your hand and how easily (or not easily) your stitches flow.

In addition, you may crochet with a knife grip, a pencil grip, or you may have your own unique way of holding your hook. Your grip will affect the way a hook feels in your palm and between your thumb and forefinger.

Inline or Tapered

Crochet hooks are either made in a tapered or inline style.

Tapered hooks, as the name states, are tapered from the shaft to the hook head. Their hooks are a bit shallower, are rounder, and stick slightly up and out. Tapered hooks move in and out of stitches quickly and easily, and crocheters with joint or wrist pain tend to like them more.

Inline hooks have throats/necks that are the same width as the shaft. Their hooks are slightly deeper, have sharper angles, and sometimes pointier tips. The sharpness of the hook can split yarn, but crocheters with looser tension sometimes like inline hooks for the uniformity they provide.

Which Brands Have the Best Crochet Hooks for Amigurumi?

I know that was a lot of background information, but it’s good to keep in mind as you select hooks for your amigurumi projects. Let’s look at my very favorite hooks (and a few that aren’t my jam…)

Clover Amour

I won’t keep you in suspense – Clover Amour hooks are my favorite for crocheting amigurumi. They are comfortable, smooth to stitch with, and never give me any issues.

Single hooks are listed for $8.95 on the Clover website but can be found cheaper on other websites (Amazon sells this multi-pack at a savings as well).

The hook and shaft are made from aluminum, while the handle is made from elastomer. The aluminum is really smooth, which helps me crochet more quickly and without my yarn catching on anything. The handle is soft and rubbery and very comfortable. It’s also a good size for my hand, which is important to me.

I highly recommend these hooks for amigurumi!

Clover Soft Touch

While I love Clover’s Amour line, I feel “meh” about their Soft Touch line of hooks. Like Amour, these hooks are made from aluminum but the handles are made from ABS resin, which is a type of plastic.

The Soft Touch hook is advertised as ergonomic, but I’m not sure why…the plastic handle isn’t very comfortable. It’s also a shorter hook, and I found its neck and shaft too short to stitch smoothly. I kept hitting the handle too quickly in the stitch and it was kind of jarring.

Clover Soft Touch hooks are $8.25 on their website, but overall I’d pass on them and choose Amour instead.

Tulip Etimo

Have you heard of Tulip’s Etimo hook? I hadn’t for a long time, but now I think it’s the second best hook for amigurumi! I love its smooth aluminum and its elastomer handle…it is very soft and comfortable.

The only reason this hook comes in second (behind Amour hooks) is its size. It’s a small hook overall, and while I have small hands and don’t mind that, the neck is just a smidge too small for how I stitch. I think it has my favorite thumb rest though.

The Tulip Etimo is typically $12-13 on Amazon. If you have hands on the smaller side, I’d definitely give it a try!

Furls

Remember earlier when I said some people love a hook for larger projects but don’t love it for amigurumi? That’s how I feel about Furls hooks. I have some beautiful Furls Streamline wood hooks in larger sizes that I’ve used for wool hats and larger blankets and I absolutely love them.

Furls was kind enough to send me two of their hooks in smaller sizes to try for amigurumi. When it comes to quality, Furls hooks can’t be beat. Their hooks are made from fantastic materials and made specifically to be ergonomic (which explains their price – $26 per hook).

For some reason, though, I just couldn’t get into a groove crocheting amigurumi with a Furls Streamline metal hook. I felt slower and more awkward than normal, and it took me a while to figure out why.

I have small hands and I think Furls’ hook style is too long and too heavy for my liking. Their larger hooks (that I love) are wood, and thus lightweight, so it’s possible I just really prefer a lighter hook.

(I know some amigurumi crocheters who absolutely ADORE their Furls hooks, so you may want to try one for yourself to make a decision).

WeCrochet Brights

Alright, let’s cut to the chase. I tried these hooks and couldn’t believe how much I disliked them. The handles were just okay, but the hook metal was practically unusable. It was rough, caused a lot of friction with my yarn, and felt cheaply made.

I didn’t even get through one project before I passed them along to another crocheter who was interested in trying them.

The WeCrochet Expanded Brights set costs $24.99 on their website. Their reviews are 4 and 5 stars, so it’s possible I received a bad batch. I’ll never know because I’m staying far away from these hooks!

Susan Bates

Many crocheters start out with Susan Bates hooks. They’re readily available at big box craft stores, and are all my mom and grandma ever seemed to have (that and Boye). I spent years crocheting with Susan Bates before I ventured to other hook brands.

I know some people hate these hooks and it’s usually because of the thin aluminum handles. If you deal with any kind of joint or wrist pain, these are hard to use for hours on end.

They’re about $5.75 each on Amazon. If you love them, no judgment here, but when you’ve got a little extra money to spend, I’d upgrade to Clover Amour.

Boye

Boye hooks are almost exactly like Susan Bates, but are more often tapered whereas Susan Bates are often inline.

They’re fine, but nothing to write home about, and aren’t nearly as comfortable as what’s possible. These hooks are usually less than $5, and for a few more dollars you can try a more comfortable hook.

I hope this guide to the best crochet hooks for amigurumi was helpful! Maybe you heard about some familiar favorites and even found some new crochet hooks to try. I’d love to know what you think.

While you’re here, this guide to the best yarn for amigurumi may come in handy too. Let me know in the comments – what’s your favorite hook to use when making amigurumi?

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post The Best Crochet Hooks for Amigurumi appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Theories vary about when and how US and UK crochet terms diverged, but it likely began with population migration. As people moved from the UK and Ireland to the US, they brought their crochet skills with them. Crochet terms changed over time as they were passed down from one crocheter to the next. Thus, the separation between US and UK lingo began.

Since we’re now able to easily share patterns with other crocheters across the globe, it’s good to know what’s what. Let’s dive into these differences so you can easily try any pattern you’d like.

Is This Really a Big Deal?

When I was a new crocheter, I didn’t really want to be bothered with learning to convert US to UK crochet terms or vice versa. It seemed like a hassle. But if you’re trying to follow another designer’s pattern, it really does matter.

You want to make sure that the stitch you’re working is the same stitch the pattern writer intended to communicate to you. If not, you probably won’t be very happy with the result.

How Do I Know Which Terms a Pattern Uses?

It isn’t always obvious which terms a crochet pattern uses. Often, if you’re purchasing a pattern, the designer will let you know up front in the pattern description whether it uses US or UK terms. Once you download the pattern and open it up, you may also find this information in the pattern notes.

If you don’t see the terms noted anywhere, don’t worry. You can still find some clues in the pattern. First, “single crochet” doesn’t exist in UK terms, so if you see it (or its abbreviation “sc”), you’re reading a pattern with US terms. Similarly, if you see a pattern use “treble” or “miss”, these are UK terms. And if you’re still unsure, it never hurts to get in touch with the pattern designer and ask.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Converting Crochet Terms

Depending on where you’re from, your perspective on converting crochet terms will either be from US to UK, or from UK to US. Of course we’re talking about the same thing either way, but since I’m from the US, the chart below is written with US terms first.

US vs. UK Crochet Terms

Need a way to keep this info handy? I’ve got a printable bookmark for you with the most common crochet stitches in both US and UK terms. Just download the PDF below, print it, and you’ll always have it as a reference when you need it. You can even use self-adhesive laminating sheets (like these) to keep your bookmark in good shape.

Additional Differences

When it comes to our shared hobby, there are a couple more differences between the US and the UK to keep in mind. Both of these differences deal with measurement.

First, yarn in the US is usually weighed in ounces whereas yarn in the UK is usually weighed in grams. Luckily, plenty of yarn companies provide the weight in both ounces and grams. You can find more information about yarn labels here if you’d like to learn more.

Second, crochet hooks made in the US are typically sized using a lettering and numbering system, and may or may not include the metric measurement of the hook. UK hooks are sized and labeled with just the metric measurement.

The chart below compares hook sizing.

US to UK Hook Sizes

I hope this was helpful in learning about some differences you’ll come across as you crochet. Make sure and print your bookmark of US vs. UK crochet terms, too. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or insights. Happy crocheting!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post US vs. UK Crochet Terms appeared first on Crochet to Play.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

I first fell in love with amigurumi (a Japanese word meaning a crochet or knit stuffed toy) over a decade ago. I still remember the day – I was in the yarn aisle at Michael’s and saw the book Amigurumi World, by Ana Paula Rimoli. Her little animals were so colorful and cute, I was instantly smitten. But other than knowing basic crochet stitches, I was clueless when it came to choosing yarn for these tiny toys. And no wonder! The sheer number of yarn choices can be overwhelming. So let’s break it down a bit (and if you want to read about my favorite brands right away, click here).

Important Considerations when Choosing Yarn

Before you decide the best yarn for your amigurumi project, there are many questions to consider. Amigurumi looks best with stitches that have great definition, so which yarns give good stitch definition? Toys are often loved, snuggled, and dragged around, so which yarns are the most durable and washable? What about texture, softness, and stretch? We usually want toys to be very soft, but they also need to be strong and hold their shape. Amigurumi is stuffed, and it won’t do to have it floppy or stretched out. Last (but oh my goodness, not least), what colors are available? If a yarn doesn’t have a wide color selection, I won’t even bother with it!

Let’s look at different types of yarn and how they meet (or don’t meet) these important needs.

Pros and Cons of Yarn Fibers for Amigurumi

When choosing the best yarn for amigurumi, it helps to first decide which yarn fiber will give you the result you want. Yarn fiber is the material the yarn is made of. Some are made from natural animal or plant fibers, and some are synthetic or man-made.

Acrylic

PROS – Acrylic yarn is a synthetic fiber. It is inexpensive and easy to find, both in person and online. It comes in a wide variety of colors for all those cute amigurumi details. Acrylic yarn is washable and relatively durable, but its longevity varies widely by brand.

CONS – Acrylics are known for pilling over time, which isn’t ideal for toys that are heavily used and washed often. This fiber may also stretch out a bit and give your toys a lumpy look after a while. Also, in comparison to other fibers like cotton, acrylic yarns do not have as much stitch definition.

Cotton

PROS – High quality cotton yarn is soft, sturdy, durable, and gives fantastic stitch definition. It is more expensive than acrylic, but still relatively affordable. Cotton yarn is washable, and does not pill over time. Many cotton brands offer great color selection, which is very important when crocheting amigurumi.

CONS – Lower quality cotton yarn can be rough and scratchy. Cotton doesn’t have much, if any, stretch, so it can be an adjustment for your hands and tension if you’re used to working with other fibers. Some of the widest color palettes come from brands with limited in-store selections, and often have to be ordered online (which, these days, is probably only a con if you need something right away). Lastly, some brands of cotton have a tendency to split, which can be quite annoying while crocheting.

Wool

PROS – Wool is flexible, which some crocheters absolutely love. If you deal with joint pain in your hands or wrists, you may want to try wool. Many brands offer wool in blends with other fibers, which gives you some versatility. Color availability in this fiber does depend on the brand, but wool often has absolutely beautiful color options, as well as marled or heathered color options.

CONS – Wool can be itchy to work with, and some brands of wool pill quite a bit over time. Wool yarn is also usually more expensive than cotton or acrylic yarn. If you prefer shopping for yarn in person, you’ll have a hard time finding a wide selection in a big box store. And if you go to a local yarn shop, you’ll have a hard time finding skeins of wool yarn packaged with amigurumi in mind. If this is your fiber of choice, online shopping is your best bet.

Chenille

PROS – I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention chenille yarn, given how popular it has become these days! Chenille, or blanket, yarn can be used to make larger, fluffy looking amigurumi. Because of it’s surge in popularity, it’s readily available in big box craft stores and comes in a decent variety of colors. It’s super soft and with the right pattern, gives an adorable result.

CONS – Chenille yarn is bulky and can be difficult to work with as it’s hard to see your stitches. It sheds and breaks fairly easily, and may come in such large skeins that you have a lot left over. It doesn’t work for all amigurumi patterns – you must follow a pattern specifically designed for chenille yarn. If you’d like to read more about my tips for dealing with the “cons” of chenille yarn, check out this blog post.

Which Brands Have the Best Yarn for Amigurumi?

With all of that information, you may have an idea of which type of yarn you’d like for your next amigurumi project. Let’s look at my very favorite yarns (and a few I do not love…) for each type of fiber so you can get shopping and get started!

Acrylic

When I started making amigurumi, I only used acrylic yarn because it was inexpensive, easy to find in person, and available in lots of colors. These days, I don’t use it as much, but when I do these are my favorite brands:

Paintbox Simply Aran or DK

Paintbox offers the absolute best in color selection, and their Simply acrylic yarn is available in both aran (light worsted) and DK weights. It’s a soft, quality acrylic option.

I Love This Yarn

Hobby Lobby offers an acrylic yarn called I Love This Yarn that has such great color options, it takes up almost an entire yarn aisle! I love the marled options and recently used this yarn when designing this whale. The price is great and the yarn is soft.

Knit picks Brava

The Brava line offered by Knit Picks comes in multiple yarn weights and beautiful colors. It’s a great acrylic option too.

As versatile as the above acrylic yarns are, there are many I just plain do not like. In general, the cheaper the acrylic, the less I like it (think Red Heart Super Saver). This is one of those areas in life where I believe you get what you pay for.

Cotton

It’s probably time to tell you, I am a loyal fan of cotton yarn and choose it almost exclusively for my amigurumi designs. For me, it’s the best yarn for amigurumi. I love the stitch definition, the texture, and the softness. Here are a few of my favorites:

Paintbox Cotton Aran or DK

Once again, Paintbox delivers an exceptional yarn in its Cotton Aran or DK line. The cotton is super soft but still sturdy and holds its shape, doesn’t split, and comes in a variety of bright, fun colors. It is my #1 go-to yarn when I plan a new design.

Rico Creative Cotton or Ricorumi

Rico has the amigurumi yarn game down, even designing little skeins called Ricorumi in a DK weight that are perfect for small amigurumi projects. I love this yarn, but it can be difficult to find as it’s made overseas and not in as many retailers as I would like, so it’s not always my first choice. However, it’s my favorite cotton for finding a variety of skin tone yarn colors.

I Love This Cotton

Hobby Lobby is back on our list with this cotton yarn. When I need a soft cotton at a local store, this is the yarn I get. It’s incredibly smooth, a little shiny, and comes in many colors. One word of caution with this yarn – keep your tension on the tighter side, because it can have a bit less structure than other cottons.

Scheepjes Stone Washed

This yarn may be new to you, but if you like yarns that blend 2 or more colors to give a heathered look, you will love it! Scheepjes Stone Washed is a cotton blended with a little acrylic and is available in sport and light worsted weights. I love using it for teeny projects, like this crochet rainbow. You can find full skeins here, or check out this adorable mini pack!

If you’re a fan of Knit Picks yarn, you may be wondering why I didn’t include any of their cottons on my list. While I love the quality of Knit Picks yarn, I don’t love their cottons for amigurumi. Their Dishie line is too twisted and rough for my taste (but is perfect for dishcloths), and their Comfy line is too soft and loose for the structure amigurumi needs (but is my favorite cotton yarn for baby blankets because of its perfect drape).

Now, the one cotton I will never use – Lily’s Sugar and Cream. Ouch! It’s way too rough and has no give. It’s definitely my least favorite cotton yarn out there.

Wool

I don’t actually have any personal experience making amigurumi with wool yarn, but my friend Elise from Elise Rose Crochet made the switch from cotton to wool for her amigurumi due to a persistent injury (you can read about her experience here) and highly recommends it. Since I’m no wool expert, I’ll share a couple of yarns that have given her work a rich, adorable result.

Berroco Vintage

This wool blend comes in stunning colors and has many 5 star reviews. It looks like a great choice!

Paintbox Wool Mix Aran

I may be a broken record recommending Paintbox, but again it offers a great option, this time in a wool blend.

And there you have it! I hope you learned a lot about your yarn options for amigurumi and found some great brands to try. Let me know in the comments what your favorite yarn is!

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How Do Crochet Abbreviations Work?

Crochet designers and publication companies generally have a set of common, agreed-upon crochet abbreviations they use. These abbreviations (and sometimes symbols) all have a specific meaning, and once you learn these meanings and how to perform the stitches, the entire world of crochet patterns is at your fingertips! Now occasionally, you’ll come across a non-standard abbreviation. Usually this is because the crochet designer created their own stitch pattern and an abbreviation to represent it. In this case, the designer should explain this in the pattern notes.

Where Do I Find Abbreviations in a Pattern?

Most designers and publishers will list the crochet abbreviations used at the beginning of a pattern. For English speakers, these will either be written in U.S. or U.K. terminology (more on that in a bit). Some patterns will only list the abbreviation for each stitch used, and some will list the abbreviation along with its meaning. Let’s look at some categories of U.S. crochet abbreviations.

Most Common Crochet Abbreviations

The following terms are the most common in crochet patterns, especially beginner patterns.

Advanced Crochet Abbreviations

These crochet terms are usually used in slightly more advanced crochet patterns.

Miscellaneous Abbreviations in Crochet Patterns

These abbreviations sometimes pop up in crochet patterns too, and usually describe an action to take, rather than a specific stitch.

In addition to all of the above abbreviations, you may also see crochet patterns that use these symbols – *, **, ( ), [ ], or { }. These symbols indicate a repetition in the pattern and will be explained as they are used. For example, (sc, ch 1, sc) 3x would tell you to repeat the stitches inside the parentheses three times.

US vs UK Crochet Terms

Just when you think things can’t get more complicated – there’s more! Some patterns use US terms and some use UK terms. The biggest different is that UK terms do not use single crochet, so every stitch kind of moves up a level in their abbreviations. For example, UK crochet patterns call a single crochet a double crochet. Here’s a handy chart to sort between the two.

I know it all sounds a little complicated and overwhelming, but don’t be intimidated! Just learn the abbreviations needed for one pattern at a time. Before you know it, you’ll have these lists memorized! And make sure to save this post to reference when you need it.

If you’d like to improve your crochet skills even more, check out more of my resources here. You can also visit The Craft Yarn Council for tons of crochet education. Happy crocheting!

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Like most beginners do, there is nothing wrong with browsing the aisles of yarn in the store and picking something purely because you love the color or texture. We crafters are visual, tactile creatures and these things speak to us! But learning to read yarn labels and understand all the information they hold will serve you well as you deepen your crochet skills.

Why Bother with Yarn Labels?

Taking the time to read yarn labels helps you choose a yarn that works for the project you have in mind. Not all yarns work for all projects. Reading yarn labels also helps you better predict the outcome of your hard work. All yarn labels should tell you: the yarn’s weight, the yardage in the skein, recommended hook or needle sizes, care instructions, the yarn material or fiber type, and the yarn color and dye lot. Let’s break these down one by one.

Yarn Weight

A yarn’s weight refers to its thickness, and is measured on a scale from 0-7. The finest yarns are labeled 0 and those labeled 7 are the thickest. One of the reasons that crochet is so versatile is because of yarn weight. You can crochet delicate earrings from thread or a thick, cozy blanket from bulky yarn. You might use the same stitches but with changes in hook size and yarn weight, the results can be drastically different!

Most yarn labels have a little icon with a number showing the yarn’s weight. The chart below describes each yarn weight in more detail, including some common terms used with each yarn weight.

Yardage/Weight

Yarn labels also tell you the amount of yarn in the skein, usually shown in yards, but also sometimes in grams or ounces. If you’re following a specific crochet pattern, it will tell you the amount of yarn needed. You can use this to figure out how many skeins you need to buy to complete the pattern.

Hook/Needle Size

When you read yarn labels, you’ll notice an icon with a crochet hook and another with knitting needles. Yarn companies work up gauge swatches and suggest hook and needle sizes accordingly. If you’re following a pattern from the yarn label or want to match their gauge swatch, their recommendation may be important to you. Otherwise, you’ll likely follow the hook size and gauge recommendations in the pattern you’re following. As you gain more experience, you’ll come to know which hook sizes work best with different yarns and for your intended purposes.

Care Instructions

You know those little laundry icons on clothing labels? Yarn labels have them too! This is very helpful when thinking about your project. Making a baby blanket? Look for the icons that tell you the yarn will be machine washable! In general, you want to make sure that the care needs of the yarn match the practical use of the item you’re making.

Material/Fiber Type

Yarn is made from so many sources these days. Cotton, wool, acrylic, bamboo – the list goes on and on! Different fibers behave differently, so understanding a yarn’s fiber makeup is key to getting the result you want. Check out this blog post by Michigan Fine Yarns for more information about different yarn fibers and their strengths and weaknesses.

Color/Dye Lot

When yarn companies dye big batches of yarn, they keep track with dye lot numbers. Luckily for us, these numbers are also printed on yarn labels. Why does this matter? Well let’s say you’re making a big blanket that will use 10 skeins of blue yarn. Dye lots can have slight variations in color, and you don’t want those differences to show up in your work. Using skeins all from the same dye lot ensures your project will have uniform color throughout.

And that about covers it! Do you feel more confident about your ability to read yarn labels? I hope so! If you learned something new, I’d love to hear about it in the comments. And make sure and save this post for reference for your next project!

If you’d like to explore more crochet resources, check these out.

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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I’ll be honest right up front and tell you that adjusting to chenille yarn wasn’t a seamless process for me. Despite designing crochet patterns professionally for years, some of my skills just didn’t transfer. But even though there were many aspects of using chenille yarn that I did not enjoy, I ended up loving my finished project (using a super cute duck lovey pattern by Mama Haekelt). It was worth it in the end, so let’s tackle these issues one by one.

Tips for Using Chenille Yarn

Issue One: Chenille is Messy

Oh my goodness, chenille is like-butter soft, but is it ever messy! I used Loops and Threads “Chenille Home Slim” yarn. This yarn constantly shed off of cut ends, however there was very little shedding once the yarn was crocheted into a fabric. My project used fairly tight single crochet stitches, so I could see there being more shedding in a project with looser stitches.

If you’re dealing with a lot of shedding, I recommend not wearing black pants and getting a lint roller while using it. This is not the yarn you want to work with when you have to dash off and be presentable somewhere! Seriously, just accept that chenille is going to shed a bit and keep on trucking.

Issue Two: Chenille Yarn Breaks Easily

This may have been the characteristic of chenille yarn that annoyed me the most. I never realized how many different ways my typical crochet habits pull on the yarn until I switched to chenille. The pattern I was following, done in chenille too, called for a magic ring. But no matter what I tried, my chenille yarn just would not pull the magic ring closed. The yarn would either snap and break or just not budge.

To compensate, I was able to make the initial ring opening very small. Then, because the yarn was so fluffy, the stitches that I worked into the ring filled this small opening almost completely. Other options: chain 2 and work all your stitches into the second chain, as though it’s the magic ring. Or, wrap a length of worsted weight yarn with the chenille yarn as you make your magic ring, then pull it closed using the worsted weight yarn’s tail.

Issue Three: Chenille Skeins Fall Apart

I thought I knew what I was doing when it came to large, unwieldy skeins of yarn: keep that yarn label on and use the center pull method. Well, I tried this with my first skein of chenille yarn. And the center pull was almost impossible to find. Once I did, you know the story…yarn barf. It was so tangled that I was forced to use the other loose end (not from the center). And once I started down this road, the skein eventually fell apart and became a huge mess.

I’ve used another skein since, and was easily able to use the center pull method, so my advice is to go that route as much as possible. But if it’s difficult, I’m sorry to say you may just have to re-wind the yarn yourself to avoid the falling-apart, yarn-barf disaster I dealt with.

Issue Four: The Ends are Hard to Weave In

Okay, I know I said the most annoying thing about chenille yarn was how easily it breaks. But now that I’m thinking this over, the most frustrating part of this yarn may be dealing with its ends. Especially if you’re like me, and you really like to make sure your ends are secure. This may be the actual reason why so many current, popular patterns that use chenille yarn are also designed to be “no-sew” patterns – using these yarn ends to attach pieces is nearly impossible.

The ends of chenille yarn fray and the fiber just falls off, which makes it even more important to properly secure them. Threading these ends onto a typical yarn needle just did not work. So what did I do? As much as possible, I knotted my ends inside of the project and crocheted over them for a full round, to make them securely disappear inside of the piece. For final ends, I used my crochet hook to weave the end through many stitches, then pulled it deep into the stuffing.

As mentioned before, I also crocheted pieces directly into the project, rather than sewing them on. And when I did have to sew two pieces together? I used worsted weight yarn in a matching color, NOT the chenille yarn. This worked surprisingly well – that good old worsted weight yarn disappeared right into the fluff.

Issue 5: Chenille is Unforgiving…Or is It?

Frogging can be a nightmare with this yarn. The yarn seems happiest in a completed stitch, and can really resist being undone (in fact, I broke the yarn or stripped the fuzziness off of it a couple of times while trying to frog). It was easier to use my fingers to gently pull apart any stitches I needed to undo.

Even though it’s a pain if you realize you’ve made a mistake and need to frog, the thickness of chenille yarn hides many imperfections. So in some ways, it’s extremely forgiving, even if you mess up a little while following a pattern. It’s so fluffy it just looks cute no matter what!

So, Would I Use Chenille Yarn Again?

Absolutely, I would use chenille yarn again…but not daily or weekly. The yarn is so soft and the final results are so cute, that I think it’s worth some of the headaches. I may not be the biggest fan of chenille, but I can definitely see how it’s become so popular.

I hope you’ve found these tips for using chenille yarn helpful! If you’d like to see a comparison of a few popular crochet yarns, check out this video by Elise Rose Crochet. For more crocheting resources, click here. And let me know about your experiences with this yarn in the comments!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Tips for Using Chenille Yarn appeared first on Crochet to Play.

In my defense, I was a self-taught crocheter before everyone went on YouTube to learn everything (which is amazing, I just didn’t do it). When I wanted to learn how to crochet, I checked out a fat stack of books from the library and got to work, following the instructions and pictures…or so I thought. What I actually did was teach myself to yarn under, and I taught myself so well that my muscle memory solidly ingrained it.

When I eventually found out I was crocheting “wrong”, I was mortified. There I was, a couple of years into designing and selling crochet patterns, and I was a fraud! Okay, not really, but that’s how I felt. So, I learned the difference between yarning over vs. yarning under, and I can help you understand it too. Spoiler alert: I still yarn under most of the time!

What’s the Difference, Anyway?

First things first: Let’s make sure we actually understand the difference between a yarn over vs. a yarn under, because it can be a little tricky to spot at first.

When you yarn over, you hook the yarn with the working yarn wrapped over the hook (see 1st photo). See how the yarn wraps over the hook, coming from the right side of the hook towards the left?

But when you yarn under, you hook the yarn with the working yarn under the hook, so that you’re “grabbing” the yarn as it comes from the left side of the hook (see 2nd photo).

Now, some people will tell you that the yarn under is more difficult to make or feels unnatural. I obviously can’t speak to this because it feels perfectly natural to me!

The way I taught myself was a combination of yarning under then yarning over. To do this, I insert my hook, yarn under, pull through, then yarn over to complete the stitch. This is what feels most natural to me.

I’ve never had any issues with tension or pain using this method. However, for some crocheters, yarning under causes more strain or wrist pain. This is definitely not the case for everyone and you know yourself best.

Which Method Should You Use?

As much as I wish I could tell you it doesn’t matter whether you yarn over or yarn under, there are differences you should understand to help you decide which method to use. Take a look at this chart:

Yarn Over (YO)	Yarn Under (YU)
Traditional/”Correct”	Non-traditional/”Incorrect”
Stitches are taller	Stitches are shorter
Uses slightly more yarn	Uses slightly less yarn
Leaves more gaps (important in amigurumi)	Leaves fewer gaps (important in amigurumi)
Slightly looser	Slightly tighter
Slants more (important in tapestry crochet)	Slants less (important in tapestry crochet)
Stitches look traditional	Stitches have an “x” shape

These differences are the most pronounced in single crochet. So, when you’re deciding to yarn over vs. yarn under, you have to base it on your project.

If you are working up something in single crochet where gauge is important, you’re going to want to match the designer’s stitches (the shorter stitches of yarning under can become a problem when matching gauge). When making garments, where drape is more of a factor, you should crochet by yarning over as well.

However, if you’re making amigurumi or a tapestry crochet project, I highly recommend yarning under! Since I make so much amigurumi, I continue to use my yu/yo method most of the time. I adjust to yo/yo when I need to, though it takes much more concentration for me. That muscle memory is strong!

Take a look at these two amigurumi spheres. The left was made using yarn over and the right was made using yarn under. Can you see the v-shaped stitches vs. the x-shaped stitches?

More Information on Yarn Over vs. Yarn Under

It can be hard to see the difference between yarning over and yarning under, so I recommend watching videos to help yourself understand both techniques. Try watching this video by Nicki’s Homemade Crafts. She goes slowly enough to really show the differences and it’s worth the watch.

I hope this was helpful for you and that you feel a little more knowledgeable about your crochet techniques. Let me know in the comment which technique you prefer!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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Fastening off means cutting your project from the yarn in a way that its stitches won’t start to unravel. All types of crochet fasten off in basically the same way, using the last loop from the last stitch on your hook. But amigurumi shapes benefit from a few additional techniques.

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Fastening Off in Amigurumi

The traditional method of fastening off is fairly straightforward when working with a flat, two-dimensional project like a blanket or a scarf. You pull the yarn through the last stitch on your hook, leave a bit of length, and cut the yarn. Then you weave in your cut yarn end by using a yarn needle.

But what about amigurumi? Amigurumi works with three-dimensional shapes, so let’s look at two fastening off techniques that achieve a neat, clean result.

1. Fastening Off an Open Piece

Amigurumi patterns often have many open pieces – legs, arms, snouts, etc. that are worked in the round and come to an open end that will be sewn to another piece of the project. With open pieces, I recommend finishing the last round with a slip stitch, then fastening off by pulling the yarn through the last loop (leaving enough length to later sew on the piece). Using a slip stitch in this way helps make a smoother transition on the edge and looks neater.

2. Fastening Off a Closed Piece

Amigurumi also has many round shapes that end with consecutive decreasing rounds, often finishing with a small round of 6 stitches. But those 6 stitches leave a little opening showing the stuffing inside. This won’t work, will it? In this case, we need to use what’s called the “drawstring method”.

First, pull the yarn through the final loop on the hook and cut the yarn, as before. Then, use a yarn needle to weave through the front loops of all six stitches from the last round, working outside to inside. I highly recommend a bent-tipped yarn needle (like this one) for this process. The bent tip makes it easier to weave the needle under small stitches.

Then, pull the yarn tail to close the shape (like a drawstring). Insert your yarn needle into the center of the circle and bring it through to the other side of the shape. To secure this yarn end, I tie a knot close to the surface and use my yarn needle to bring the end back inside the piece. If you’d like to see a video of this “drawstring” process, Ollie Holly Crochet has a great one here.

Did you learn something new about how to fasten off in amigurumi? I hope it was helpful! Tips like this can take your amigurumi to the next level, so check out more resources here. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, and happy crocheting!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Fasten Off in Amigurumi appeared first on Crochet to Play.