Second, because magic rings are adjustable, you can work a variety of stitches into them – both the number and type of stitches can vary but the magic ring will still work.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

What Does the Magic Ring Replace?

If you’ve crocheted in the round before (rather than in rows), you may have started something like this – chain 2, slip stitch into the first chain, then begin working your stitches into that ring.

Unfortunately this method leaves an open hole in your work. And if you’re going to be stuffing a toy, as with amigurumi, this is not ideal.

So what’s the solution? You guessed it – a magic ring! Let’s walk through it step by step!

I recommend using a worsted weight yarn in a light color to practice, along with a larger sized hook like this one.

How to Crochet a Magic Ring

While occasionally you may see it called a “magic circle” or “magic loop”, magic ring is the most common crochet terminology. If you’re following a crochet pattern, you may also see this abbreviated as MR.

Let’s take a look at a breakdown of each step of making a magic ring.

Step One: Wrap Yarn Around Fingers in X Shape

Although there are multiple methods, when I make a magic ring, I start in exactly the same way as I do when I start a slip knot.

With your loose yarn end hanging down your palm, wrap the yarn behind and around your index and middle fingers, as pictured, making an X shape.

Step Two: Hook the Yarn

Insert your hook under the side of the X closest to the hook, then grab the yarn (the other side of the X), and pull through.

Step Three: Pull Up a Loop

With the yarn you just grabbed, loosely pull up a small loop. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the loop with your non-dominant hand to keep the shape in place.

Step Four: Chain One

Continuing to pinch the loop (so it doesn’t just fall apart), chain 1. This locks the loop into place and does not count as a stitch (when using single crochet stitches for the rest of the ring).

Step Five: Stitch into the Loop

Begin working the indicated number of stitches into the loop. When making amigurumi, this first round is usually 6 single crochet stitches, but any basic stitch or number of stitches can be worked into a magic ring.

Note: if a pattern calls for taller stitches such as double crochet to be worked into the ring, it will often prompt you to chain 2 and this may then count as a stitch.

If you find your magic ring is a little too loose to easily work into, make it smaller by pulling a bit on the loose yarn tail.

Step Six: Pull the Yarn Tail to Close the Circle

Once you have crocheted the number of stitches needed for your first round, gently pull the beginning yarn tail. Continue pulling until the ring is completely closed.

As you increase the size of your work with your additional rounds, you can further secure this yarn tail. Just weave it in between your stitches on the wrong side of your work.

When and Why to Use a Magic Ring

Even if you’re not into amigurumi, magic rings are really useful for any crochet that is worked in the round.

For example, I use magic rings when beginning hats, baskets, and even some granny squares! Anytime you’re working in the round and don’t want a beginning hole, the magic ring is the right choice.

I hope this tutorial was helpful for you as you learn the magic ring for yourself! Let me know in the comments what you’ll use this method for.

If you’d like to see a video tutorial, check out these left-handed and right-handed guides by Planet June.

If you’d love to learn more skills to improve your amigurumi, try these. And if you’d like to see more stitch tutorials, click here.

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Crochet a Magic Ring appeared first on Crochet to Play.

All basic crochet stitches result in making the vertical post of the stitch and the top of the stitch. The top of the stitch is made of two loops – the front loop and the back loop – and looks like a sideways “v”.

The front loop of the “v” is the loop nearest to you when you’re crocheting and the back loop is the loop furthest from you.

Let’s take a closer look at the “anatomy” of a stitch and how to crochet in the front loop only.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crocheting in the Front Loop Only

As you follow a crochet pattern, you may see crocheting in the front loop only abbreviated in many ways. Designers commonly use “FLO” or just “FL”, and then often add the type of stitch to this shorthand.

So if you need to crochet a single crochet into the front loop only, it would likely be abbreviated as “FLsc” or “FLOsc”. Likewise, a half double crochet worked into the front loop only would be written as “FLhdc” or “FLOhdc”, and so on through the stitches.

Ready to try it for yourself? If you’re new to crocheting or just practicing, I recommend using a worsted weight yarn in a light color and a larger hook, size I/5.50mm or bigger.

Step One: Begin Your Stitch

Whichever stitch you’re completing, begin by starting that stitch as usual. If, for example, you’re working in double crochet (as pictured here), you would begin by yarning over once.

Step Two: Insert Your Hook

Next, you’ll insert your hook into only the front loop of the “v”. This can take a little maneuvering of the wrist since it’s at a different angle than traditional crochet stitches.

Step Three: Finish the Stitch

Once you’ve inserting your hook under the front loop only, you just complete your stitch as usual. So with the example of double crochet again, you would yarn over, pull your hook back through that front loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops twice.

Pretty simple, right? If you can complete basic stitches like single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and so on, all you have to do is adjust from working in both loops to using only the front loop.

When and Why to Crochet in the Front Loop Only

So, now that you know how to complete a stitch in the front loops only, you may wonder why this is a helpful crochet technique to master.

Why might a crochet pattern direct you to crochet in the front loop only? Let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons.

Amigurumi

Amigurumi, the crochet art of creating 3D toys, uses the front loops fairly often. Most commonly, the invisible decrease stitch is worked into the front loops to minimize the look of the decrease (so it blends in smoothly with the other stitches).

Additionally, when you want a 3D shape to flare out, such as the brim of a hat, crocheting in the front loop only can achieve this result.

Texture

When completing a row of stitches in the front loop only, the back loops will be left remaining. This creates a horizontal ridge that adds a bit of texture to your fabric. This ridge won’t be visible from the front or right side of the fabric, but depending on your pattern’s use of turned rows, it could become a visual feature.

Crocheting in the FLO does not, however, create the ribbing that crocheting in the BLO does.

Drape

Crocheting in the front loop only can elongate your stitches which loosens them just a bit. This can add more drape when creating garments. Thus, you may come across wearable patterns where the designer uses FLO stitches to achieve more drape.

I hope this tutorial was helpful as you learn and improve your crochet skills! If you’d like to see more crochet stitch tutorials, check them out here.

And if you’d like to see a video tutorial for this stitch, take a peak here at this video by Yarndrasil.

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crocheting in the Front Loop Only appeared first on Crochet to Play.

The good news? Crocheting in the back loop only is really simple once you’ve mastered basic crochet stitches (like single crochet, double crochet, etc.). In fact, you can crochet in the BLO of any and all crochet stitches that have that signature “v” on top.

Ready to try it? Let’s begin! To practice this stitch, all you’ll need is yarn and a hook. I recommend beginning with worsted weight yarn in a light color (easier to see and count your stitches), and a size I/5.50mm hook, but use whatever works best for you.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

How to Crochet in the Back Loop Only

Every basic crochet stitch results in the same “v” shape on top. That “v” is made with two loops, the front and the back. The front loop is the loop closest to you and the back loop is furthest from you.

Step One: Begin Your Stitch

The first step of working in the BLO is to begin your stitch as you usually would. So if you’re working a half double crochet or double crochet, you’ll begin by yarning over. Or if you’re working a single crochet, you won’t yarn over.

Step Two: Insert Your Hook

Next, instead of inserting your hook under both loops of the “v” as usual, insert your hook under only the back loop (pretty obvious where this stitch got its name, huh?).

Step Three: Complete Your Stitch

Once you’ve inserted your hook under the BLO, complete your stitch as usual. So if you’re working a half double crochet, you’ll yarn over, pull your hook back through, yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

This technique can be performed whether you’re crocheting in rows or in the round. Also, note that occasionally you’ll come across a pattern where this is abbreviated “BL” instead of “BLO”.

When and Why to Crochet in the Back Loops Only

So, why would a crocheter want to crochet in the back loops only? Well, there are plenty of reasons! Let me tell you a few.

Texture

When you crochet in the BLO, there is texture created by the remaining, unworked front loops of each stitch. This horizontal texture can add a striped detail whether working in rows or rounds, from blankets and garments to baskets and hats.

Ribbing and Stretch

One of my favorite reasons for crocheting in the BLO is to add ribbing and stretch to hats and garments!

The fabric created by crochet isn’t exactly known for being stretchy and flexible. But when you work repeated rows in the back loops around a hat brim, a sleeve cuff, or a sweater hem, you will find this gives you lots of stretch.

Amigurumi Shaping

Amigurumi (Japanese for a crochet stuffed toy) benefits from crocheting in the back loops only all the time, as different shapes must be made to achieve the three dimensional results.

This is especially helpful when going from a flat shape, like a circle, to a cylindrical shape that can be stuffed. If you crochet a flat circle in single crochet stitches, then work just one round in the BLO and then switch back to regular stitches, you’ll begin to form a cylinder.

Additionally, many amigurumi patterns will include a round in the back loops only just to leave the front loops remaining. Then later in the pattern, the yarn will be reattached and a new shape will begin using those leftover front loops (such as a doll skirt).

I hope this walked you through the steps you needed to start crocheting in the back loop only for yourself! If you’d like to see a video tutorial of this method, check this out. And if you’re looking for more stitch tutorials, take a peek here.

Happy crocheting!

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© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crocheting in the Back Loop Only appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Traditional single crochet decreases, or sc2tog stitches, are ideal when making something that results in a flat fabric – like a scarf, blanket, or garment. But when you’re making something in the round, especially something stuffed like amigurumi, invisible decreases are a better technique. Why? Because this special decrease helps eliminate gaps.

With traditional decreases, these gaps are often left behind where the decrease was completed. This becomes more obvious if stuffing is added to the work. The invisible decrease helps reduce these gaps and gives a smoother, cleaner finish.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Ready to try it for yourself? Whenever you’re learning a new stitch, I recommend using worsted weight yarn in a light color and a larger hook, such as size I/5.50mm. Using light yarn and a bigger hook can help you to see what you’re doing more clearly and help you notice if you’ve made any mistakes along the way.

How to Invisible Decrease

Step 1: Begin with a Row or Round of Single Crochet Stitches

You can practice the invisible decrease (abbreviated “invdec”) in flat rows or in the round. The photos below will show the technique both ways, although it is most common to use this stitch in the round.

Step 2: Learn the Invisible Decrease Stitch

Remember, decrease stitches essentially combine two stitches from the previous row/round into one. In this way, invisible decreases are just like traditional ones.

To make your first invisible decrease, insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the following stitch. Your hook will be inserted into two front loops at the same time. This photo shows this when working in rows.

And this photo shows this when working in the round.

Yarn over and pull up a loop (pulling back out through both front loops). Then yarn over, and pull through both loops on your hook. You have just completed one invisible decrease stitch! Here it is when working in rows.

And here it is when working in the round.

Step 3: Keep Practicing

When I first learned to invdec, I know I found it a little awkward to insert my hook into two consecutive front loops at once. This can take some practice to feel smooth, but the result is SO worth it! As you continue to practice and perfect this skill, you will really notice the difference in the neatness of your amigurumi.

If you’d like to watch a video of this stitch, try this one by Bella Coco Crochet. You can also learn about more stitches and crochet techniques by visiting these Stitch Tutorials and Resources as well. Happy stitching!

Keep this tutorial handy on Pinterest by saving here!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Invisible Decrease appeared first on Crochet to Play.

A single crochet decrease is used to combine two stitches into one, so that the row or round you’re working on ends up with fewer stitches than the previous row or round. Each basic crochet stitch has a corresponding decrease stitch, so once you’ve learned how to sc2tog, you can apply the same concept when learning how to decrease in half double crochet, double crochet, and so on. Decrease stitches are often used for shaping projects like hats, toys, or even making interesting patterns, like chevrons in blankets. Decrease stitches can be used either flat or in the round.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Let’s practice the single crochet decrease using the steps outlined below. Whenever you’re learning a new stitch, I recommend using worsted weight yarn in a light color and a larger hook, such as size I/5.50mm. Using light yarn and a bigger hook can help you to see what you’re doing more clearly and help you notice if you’ve made any mistakes along the way.

How to Single Crochet Decrease

Step 1: Begin with a Row of Single Crochet Stitches

Make a slip knot and chain 19. Then, single crochet (sc) into the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. This will give you 18 stitches.

Step 2: Single Crochet in Rows

Single crochet for a few rows, remembering to make a turning chain of 1 at the end of each row. For this demonstration, I’ve completed 5 rows, so that it will be easier to see the difference when we eliminate some stitches through single crochet decreases.

Step 3: Make Your First Single Crochet Decrease

We’ll make our decrease stitches at the beginning and end of each following row so you can see how the fabric begins to narrow.

After your last row from Step 2 above, chain 1 and turn. Now, insert your hook into the next stitch and yarn over, as though you’re beginning to single crochet. Pull up a loop (you’ll now have two loops on your hook). With two loops still on your hook, insert the hook into the next stitch.

Then yarn over, and pull up a loop. You’ll now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over for the last time, and pull through all three loops on the hook. This completes one single crochet decrease.

Step 4: Count Your Stitches

Let’s finish this row and count our stitches.

Work 14 regular single crochet stitches across the row. Then, work another sc2tog stitch into the last two stitches. As you decrease, the number of stitches in the row will decrease as well. When you’re following a specific pattern, it is important to keep track of your stitch count as you go.

Since we started this row with 18 stitches, then worked two sc2tog stitches, we’ve reduced our stitch count by two. Count your stitches and make sure your new total is 16.

Step 5: Keep Practicing

Let’s practice a couple more rows to get the hang of this.

Chain 1, and turn. Then work 1 sc2tog, 12 sc, and 1 sc2tog across the row. Your stitch total should be 14. Chain 1, and turn. Then work 1 sc2tog, 10 sc, and 1 sc2tog across the next row. The stitch total for this row should be 12.

Can you see the mathematical pattern? Since each decrease combines two stitches into one, each decrease will subtract 1 stitch from your total. Crochet is fundamentally mathematical, and the more you learn the more you’ll see it! In this photo, you can see how the shape of the fabric we’ve made angles inward with each decrease row.

Well done learning a new crochet skill that you can apply to many new patterns! If you’d like to keep practicing, try watching this video by CreatiKnit.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments. You can learn about more stitches and crochet techniques by visiting these Stitch Tutorials and Resources as well. Happy stitching!

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© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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Depending on the type of crocheting you do, you may not need to make the triple crochet stitch very often, but then again, you might! This stitch is the tallest in our stitch tutorials so far. It can be used to create very loose, mesh-like fabrics. It can also be used in combination with other stitches to make different shapes and edges for finishing.

Once you’ve learned some crochet basics, you can learn how to triple crochet. It’s just like making a double crochet stitch, but with one extra yarn over at the start of each stitch. The triple crochet is a good way to learn how to get comfortable with more loops on your hook, as some more advanced stitches build on this skill.

Ready? Let’s begin! To practice this stitch, all you’ll need is yarn and a hook. I recommend beginning with worsted weight yarn in a light color (easier to see and count your stitches), and a size I/5.50mm hook, but use whatever works best for you.

How to Triple Crochet

Step 1: Slip Knot and Chain

To begin, let’s chain 24. We’re going to work our first triple crochet into the 5th chain from the hook, as marked in the photo below.

Step 2: Make Your First Triple Crochet Stitch

Yarn over twice and insert your hook into the 5th chain from the hook. Yarn over, and pull up a loop. You will now have 4 loops on your hook.

Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remaining on your hook). Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops again (2 loops remaining on your hook). Yarn over for the final time, and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook. This completes one triple crochet stitch (abbreviated as tr in US terms).

Step 3: Triple Crochet in the Remaining Chains

Continue to work triple crochets using the steps above in each of the remaining chains, then count your stitches. You should have 20 triple crochet stitches, with a count of 21 for the row when including the first 4 chains we skipped.

Step 4: Keep Practicing!

Once you have worked stitches into the whole chain and have reached its end, you can keep making additional rows to practice. When working with triple crochet, you need to crochet a turning chain of 4 after each row, and then turn your work. So for this practice swatch, chain 4, then turn your work (flip your first row so the back of what you just crocheted is now facing you).

Most patterns will direct you to count this turning chain as a stitch. However, always check your pattern’s notes to be sure. If the turning chain counts as a stitch, you next skip the stitch directly underneath your turning chain, then work triple crochets in each stitch across the row. Lastly, the final stitch of the row is worked into the previous row’s turning chain.

Keep chaining 4, then turning and working stitches across each row as described above. You can make as many rows as you’d like to practice, working on improving your tension and the evenness of your stitches. Getting used to all the loops involved in the triple crochet takes time, so give yourself lots of grace.

If you’d like to see a video about this, try this one by Hopeful Turns. I know you’ll be a pro in no time! You can learn about more stitches and crochet techniques by visiting these Stitch Tutorials and Resources as well. Happy crocheting!

Keep this tutorial on Pinterest as a reference by saving here!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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Are you new to crochet and ready to increase your skills? If you can chain and single crochet, learning how to half double crochet will be a snap. The half double crochet stitch is incredibly versatile and used in so many types of crochet patterns. I’ve used it when making hats, garments, blankets, and more!

This stitch is called a “half double” crochet because it’s about half the height of a double crochet stitch (a little more than half, really). If you were to line up these stitches by their height, single crochet would be the shortest, then half double crochet, then double crochet. Half double crochet stitches create a fairly dense fabric – looser than single crochet but with smaller gaps than those created by double crochet.

You can use the tutorial below to learn this fun stitch. Whenever you’re learning a new crochet skill, I always recommend using a larger hook and lighter yarn – such as a worsted weight yarn in a light color (easier to see and count your stitches), and a size I/5.50mm hook, but use whatever works best for you.

How to Half Double Crochet

Step 1: Slip Knot and Chain

Since we’ll be practicing in rows, we’ll begin by attaching our yarn to our hook with a slip knot, then chaining. For this swatch, let’s chain 20. The photo below has the number of chains marked.

Step 2: Make Your First Half Double Crochet Stitch

Use your non-dominant hand to hold your chain stitches steady. Then, yarn over and insert your hook into the 3rd chain from the hook (see photo below).

Now, with your hook still inserted, yarn over again and draw up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over for the final time, and pull through all three loops on your hook. This completes one half double crochet stitch (abbreviated as hdc).

Step 3: Half Double Crochet in the Remaining Chains

Now that you know how to make this stitch, continue to follow the steps above for each remaining chain stitch. When you’ve finished, you should have 18 hdc stitches.

Step 4: Make the Next Row

Once you’ve reached the end of the chain, it’s time to make the next row. To do this, we’ll need a turning chain. When working with half double crochet, we use a turning chain of 2. Some patterns will count the turning chain as a stitch and some won’t, so just remember to look for that when following a specific pattern.

For this swatch, I’m not counting the turning chain as a stitch. So, we’ll chain 2, then hdc into each stitch we made in the first row. This gives us a total of 18 stitches for each row.

Step 5: Keep practicing!

You can continue to practice by making as many rows as you’d like! You just need make a turning chain of 2 and turn your work after every row. The more you practice, the more even your tension and stitches will become. When you’re ready to fasten off, pull your last loop through a few inches, and cut your yarn. Use a yarn needle to weave the yarn end through the posts of your stitches. This video by Melanie Ham is a good example of how to work this stitch.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments! You can learn about more stitches and crochet techniques by visiting these Stitch Tutorials and Resources as well. Happy stitching!

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© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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If you’re a crochet beginner and starting to expand your skills, learning how to double crochet is a great next step. Double crochet is a common basic stitch and easy to learn. If you can already chain and single crochet, you most likely know how to hold your yarn and how to yarn over. That means you’re ready to learn this stitch, too.

Double crochet stitches are popular in many projects, like hats, scarves, and blankets (especially those made of granny squares)! It’s a taller stitch, about the height of 3 chain stitches, versus the single crochet stitch which is shorter and about the height of 1 chain stitch. This height makes projects made from double crochet more flexible and have more drape than those made from single crochet, which is more structured and creates a more rigid fabric.

So, if you’re ready to learn how to double crochet on your own, read on. All you’ll need to practice this stitch are a hook and some yarn. I always recommend that those learning practice with worsted weight yarn in a light color and a larger hook, such as a size I/5.50mm. Using light yarn and a bigger hook can help you to see what you’re doing more clearly and help you notice if you’ve made any mistakes along the way.

How to Double Crochet

How to begin a project that uses double crochet stitches depends on the pattern you’re using and the type of project. Some begin in the round and some begin with rows. For the purposes of practicing here today, we will double crochet in rows.

Step 1: Slip Knot and Chain

We’ll begin by attaching our yarn to our hook and then chaining 21. Our double crochet stitches will be worked into this foundation chain. See here if you need a refresher on starting with a slip knot and chaining.

Step 2: Make Your First Double Crochet Stitch

Yarn over, then insert your hook into the 4th chain from the hook (see the chains marked below).

Yarn over, and pull your hook back through the chain. You will now have 3 loops on your hook. These steps are pictured below.

Yarn over again, and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull through the last 2 loops on the hook. You have completed 1 double crochet stitch. These additional steps are pictured below.

Step 3: Double Crochet in the Remaining Chains

You should have 17 chains remaining. Repeat the directions from Step 2 above and work a double crochet stitch into each chain. When you’ve finished this step, you should have 18 stitches, plus the initial 3 chains that you skipped. These skipped chains are usually counted as a stitch as well (more about that later).

Step 4: Keep practicing!

Just like in single crochet, when we double crochet in rows we will need a turning chain. Because these crochet stitches are taller, our turning chains must be longer as well. Typically, double crochet rows need a turning chain of 3. However, crochet patterns vary and many will have you work a turning chain of 2 instead. You may notice that chaining 3 leaves more gaps and you prefer chaining 2 (in fact, this is my preference), but the traditional amount is 3 chains in a turning row for double crochet.

So, to continue practicing, with the last loop on your hook from your last stitch, chain 3, then turn your work. Skip the first stitch (directly under the chain), and then work double crochet stitches into each previous stitch (under the v’s). At the end of the row, work one stitch into the top v of the 3 chains (these are the chains we skipped initially that count as a stitch).

Keep chaining 3, turning, and working stitches across each row as described above. You can make as many rows as you’d like to practice, working on improving your tension and the evenness of your stitches. If you’d like to see a video about this, try this one by the Crochet Guru . Keep practicing and I know you’ll be a pro in no time! You can learn about more stitches and crochet techniques by visiting these Stitch Tutorials and Resources as well. Happy crocheting!

Keep this tutorial on Pinterest as a reference by saving here!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

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As a crochet beginner, the first stitch you often learn is the single crochet stitch. Before you practice how to single crochet, you’ll want to first make sure you’ve mastered chaining. Single crochet stitches are often worked into a foundation chain to start a project, so this stitch is a great place to begin growing your new skills.

Single crochet stitches are one of the shorter stitches you can crochet, based on the height of the stitch. This gives items worked in single crochet a dense, structured texture. Single crochet stitches lend themselves well to amigurumi (crochet toys), bags, baskets, washcloths, and much more.

Ready to learn how to make this stitch? Follow the steps below and you’ll be a pro in no time. All you need to practice this stitch are yarn and a hook. I recommend beginning with worsted weight yarn in a light color (easier to see and count your stitches), and a size I/5.50mm hook, but use whatever works best for you.

Steps to Single Crochet

Step 1: Slip Knot and Chain

Before you can single crochet, you will first need to attach the yarn to your hook with a slip knot, then crochet a foundation chain to work your single crochet stitches into. If you’re still learning this step, you can use this guide to get you started. For practice, let’s chain 16. One chain will be skipped as we turn our hook back, and we’ll work our single crochet stitches into the other 15 chains.

Step 2: Make Your First Single Crochet Stitch

Holding your chain stitches steady, you will see your final chain stitch and one loop around your hook. Turning your hook back towards the chain, insert it into the 2nd chain from your hook. Each chain stitch has a top loop, bottom loop, and back loop (that you can see when you turn the chain over). I insert my hook under the top and back loops and above the bottom loop, but many crocheters insert their hooks under just the top loop.

With your hook inserted, yarn over, grabbing the yarn with your hook. Then, pull the hooked yarn back through the chain. You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over again, pulling through both loops on your hook. You have now completed your first single crochet stitch (yahoo)!

Step 3: Single Crochet in Remaining Chains

Next, continue to insert your hook into each chain, making a single crochet stitch each time. You will work from right to left, toward the slip knot you created before beginning your foundation chain. Since you originally chained 16, and began single crocheting in the 2nd chain from the hook, you will complete a total of 15 single crochets. The abbreviation for this would be 15 sc.

Step 4: Count Your Stitches

Much of crocheting, and reading crochet patterns, includes having an accurate number of stitches in each row or round of your project. As you practice how to single crochet, you should also practice counting your stitches. At first they may be uneven and a little more difficult to count, but with time your tension will become more steady and your stitches will become more uniform.

When you look at your row of stitches, you’ll see a short “post” (the vertical part of the stitch), and a sideways “v” (the top of the stitch). I personally think it’s easier to count the top “v’s” when counting single crochet, as the posts are short and a little harder to see. Both ways to count are shown in the images below.

More Practice

You learned how to single crochet one row; now what? Keep going!

So far, you’ve already worked 15 stitches into the foundation chain you began with. To continue with a second row, you will work 15 stitches into the first row you made. But first you need what’s called a turning chain. Here’s how to do this:

You should have one loop on your hook after the last stitch of your first row. Now, chain 1 by yarning over and pulling the yarn through that loop. This chain is called a turning chain because it’s used when you turn your work.

Now, turn your work so that the back of the first row you made is facing you. You will see the sideways “v’s” from the single crochets you made in your first row. Insert your hook under both loops of the first v and follow the steps from above to make a single crochet stitch. Continue making single crochets into each “v”, working from right to left.

To keep practicing, you can make as many rows as you want. You just need to make a turning chain after each row, and then turn the work each time. The more you practice, the more even your tension will become and the better you’ll get. When you’re ready to fasten off, just pull your last loop through a few inches, and cut your yarn. You can use a yarn needle to weave the yarn end through the posts of your stitches. And if you’d like to see a video of how to single crochet, this one by The Crochet Guru is helpful. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments!

Keep this tutorial on Pinterest as a reference by saving here!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Single Crochet appeared first on Crochet to Play.

When you begin to crochet, one of the first skills you’ll want to learn is how to crochet a chain. Chain stitches form the foundation of many crochet projects – so much so, they’re often called “foundation chains.”

Foundation chains are used all the time in crochet. They begin items that are flat and worked back and forth in rows. Chains can also be joined into a circle to make items worked in the round. Since this is such an important beginner crochet skill, let’s get you chaining!

You don’t need much to get started – just yarn and a hook. I recommend beginning with worsted weight yarn in a lighter color (darker colors make it harder to see each stitch), and a size I/5.50mm crochet hook. Of course, if you have different yarn or a different hook size, don’t let that stop you!

Steps to Crochet a Chain

Step 1: Begin with a Slip Knot
A slip knot is the method we use in crochet to “attach” the yarn to the hook. To make a slip knot, wrap the yarn in a circle, overlapping as pictured. Insert your hook into the center of the circle, then use it to hook the yarn and pull it through the circle. Tighten the circle (by pulling the loose yarn end) onto the shaft of the crochet hook.

Step 2: Crochet Your First Chain
Your slip knot has left you with one loop around the shaft of your crochet hook. Guiding the yarn with your other hand, wrap the yarn around your hook as pictured (this is called a “yarn over”). Now, while the hook is wrapped with this yarn, pull the hook through the loop. This is one chain stitch.

Step 3: Repeat for the Number of Chains Needed
When you’re practicing chain stitches, you can go and go and make as many as you want! If you’re following a pattern, it will tell you how many chains to crochet. For example, it might say “Chain 16” or use the abbreviation “Ch 16”. This means you will chain 16 times. The remaining loop on your hook does not count as a chain.

Step 4: Learn to Count Your Chains
If you have a set number of chains to make, you want to know that you’re counting them accurately. When the chain is facing up, you will see each stitch as a sideways “v”. Each “v” is counted as one chain. In the photo below, there are 11 chain stitches that you can see marked.

Pro Tips

While chaining is not the most complicated crochet stitch, that doesn’t make it a piece of cake when you are first learning! Here are some tips to help make it a little easier (keep in mind I am right-handed):

Make sure you know what each of your hands is doing. Your left hand should be guiding the yarn and keeping the chain steady, while your right hand is holding the hook and performing each stitch.

Use your thumb and middle finger on your left hand to secure the slip knot when you start, and then the chain as you go. I pinch the chain in this way as I go because it prevents the chain from twisting. It can also prevent the previous chain from tightening as you make the next chain.

Remember that chain stitches are the first step in a project, which means eventually other stitches will be worked into the chain. Tight chains can be very difficult to work into, so it’s well worth it to experiment with your tension. Depending on how tightly you hold your yarn as you work, your chain can become tighter or looser. Practice making semi-loose, even chains.

Ready for more?

If you’ve practiced chain stitching and are ready for the next step, I have lots of resources to help you grow your skills. Click here to learn how to begin crocheting into your chain with the single crochet stitch. And if you’re looking for more help learning how to chain, check out this helpful video by Bella Coco Crochet.

I hope this tutorial was helpful as you learn how to crochet a chain. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments and I’d be happy to help you out!

Want to keep this tutorial as a reference? Save it to Pinterest!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post How to Crochet a Chain appeared first on Crochet to Play.