Have you ever looked at something and wondered if it could be made with yarn? My mind tends to work this way. I’ll see something cute, completely unrelated to hooks and yarn, and I start imagining a crochet version of it.

That’s how it was when I saw some beautifully embroidered felt letters hung as tree ornaments. They didn’t spell the words I made here, or really look anything like these letters. I just liked the idea of making words to hang as Christmas ornaments so much I had to try it myself.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

If you’re familiar with my other designs, you might know that much of what I make is worked in the round. These letters, however, are worked flat and made in rows.

You will make each letter twice. Then the letters are sewn together, with a front and back layer, and a little stuffing tucked in between.

Crochet Letter Ornaments Patterns

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Scheepjes River Washed sport weight mini skeins (from this multi-pack), in a variety of colors
• Size 3.00mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Stuffing (small amount)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Blocking board and pins (for wet blocking)
• Spray bottle (for wet blocking)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch

Finished Size:

Using the Scheepjes River Washed yarn, which is sport weight, and a 3.00mm hook, my letter ornaments measure about 3″ tall and 2″ wide. Your letters will vary in size depending on the yarn weight and hook you use, as well as your own personal tension while crocheting.

Pattern Notes:

The Crochet Letter Ornaments use simple stitches that you will likely be familiar with. The techniques used for each letter shape, however, might be new to you. Read the following tips for a bit of help.

First, just know ahead of time that wet blocking is KEY to your success with this pattern. Your letters will curl and twist a bit prior to being blocked and that is normal! More tips about blocking come below in the pattern and I’ll walk you through it; I just wanted you to be prepared for this.

Read through the instructions for each letter before you begin. Most of the letters use chains, single crochet stitches, and increases in specific places to form their shapes.

Some of the letters use the above stitches as well as an additional chain that adds the “arm” of the letter (for example, the letters Y, L, V, and E all have additional “arms”). This is the most complex part of these patterns, so pay close attention to the wording as you go.

Some letters will appear backward as you make them. For example, as you’re working the arm of the Y, the back of the letter will be facing you. You’ll flip the letters over if this is the case when blocking and sewing.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes additional photo illustrations for each step.

JOY Crochet Pattern

Letter J

R1: Ch 21. Inc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 chains. (Sc, inc) 2x. 9 sc. Ch 1, turn. (29)
R2: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 16 sc. (31)

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two.

Letter O

R1: Ch 24. Keep your chain from twisting, then sc in 1st chain to form a ring (mark with your stitch marker). Inc in next st. Then (sc, inc) 11x. (36)
R2: (5 sc, inc) 6x around. (42)
R3: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two. The letter O looks best if you finish with an invisible join, as demonstrated in this video by The Yarn Shelf.

Letter Y

R1: Ch 20. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (19)
R2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 10 sc. Ch 10, then sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the arm that branches off the Y. (arm – 9 total sc)
Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2. Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm. Ch 1, turn, and sc back across arm.
Attach with a sc to the next unworked st of R2. This completes the arm of the Y.
R3, continued: Sc in remaining 7 sts.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two. (See wet blocking and finishing instructions below, after patterns for additional letters).

Crochet LOVE Pattern

Letter L

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 14 sc. Ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the arm of the L. (arm – 8 total sc) Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2.
Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm.
Ch 1, turn, and sc back across arm. Attach with a sl st to the final unworked st of R2.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two.

Letter O

R1: Ch 24. Keep your chain from twisting, then sc in 1st chain to form a ring (mark with your stitch marker). Inc in next st. Then (sc, inc) 11x. (36)
R2: (5 sc, inc) 6x around. (42)
R3: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two.

Letter V

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 14 sc. Ch 14, then sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the arm of the V. (arm – 13 total sc)
Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2. Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm.
Ch 1, turn, and sc back across the arm.
Attach arm with a sl st to final unworked st of R2. This completes the arm of the V.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Use yarn needle and yarn tail to bring the arms of the V together by sewing as pictured. I sewed 4 pairs of stitches on the inside bottom of the V together.

Letter E

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Turn without chaining.
R3: Sl st in 1st st. *Ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the 1st arm of the E. (arm – 8 total sc)
Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2. Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm.
Ch 1, turn, and sc back across the arm. Attach with a sl st to the next unworked st of R2.
R3, continued: 5 sc.
Arm 2: Repeat directions from Arm 1 (marked by *).
R3, continued: 4 sc
Arm 3: Repeat directions from Arm 1 (marked by *).

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two. (See wet blocking and finishing instructions below, after patterns for additional letters).

Crochet PEACE Pattern

Letter P

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 14 sc. Ch 12, then attach with a sl st to the 7th sc from R3 (make sure chain doesn’t twist). This begins the curve of the P. Ch 1, turn.
Working into chain stitches, sc in each chain (it’s ok if you’re working into the backside of the chain).
Attach with a sl st to next unworked st of R2. Ch 1, turn.
Working into the curve: (3 sc, inc) 3x. (15)
Attach to 6th sc from R3. Ch 1, turn.
Working into the curve: (4 sc, inc) 3x. (18)
Attach with sl st to final unworked st of R2.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two.

Letter E

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Turn without chaining.
R3: Sl st in 1st st. *Ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the 1st arm of the E. (arm – 8 total sc)
Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2. Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm.
Ch 1, turn, and sc back across the arm. Attach with a sl st to the next unworked st of R2.
R3, continued: 5 sc.
Arm 2: Repeat directions from Arm 1 (marked by *).
R3, continued: 4 sc
Arm 3: Repeat directions from Arm 1 (marked by *).

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make four (two in each color you choose).

Letter A

R1: Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
R2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.
R3: 14 sc. Ch 14, then sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. This creates the arm of the A. (arm – 13 total sc)
Attach the arm with a sl st to the next unworked st from R2. Ch 1, turn, then sc in each st of the arm.
Ch 1, turn, and sc back across the arm.
Attach arm with a sl st to final unworked st of R2. This completes the arm of the A.

After final sl st, fasten off, leaving very long tail. Holding the A with the point at the top, reattach yarn with a sl st to the 8th st from the bottom of the right arm.
Ch 3. Attach ch with a sl st to the opposite arm, again to the 8th st from the bottom.
Ch 1, turn (A will be upside-down; it’s ok if you’re working into the backside of the chain).
Sc in each chain. Sl st to other side (7th st up from bottom of A).
Ch 1, turn. Again, sc in each ch and sl st to other side.

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two.

Letter C

R1: Ch 18. Inc in 2nd ch from hook and in next chain. 1 sc. Continue to (2 inc, 1 sc) 5x. Ch 1, turn. (30)
R2: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn.
R3: (4 sc, inc) 6x. (36)

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Make two. (See wet blocking and finishing instructions below).

Wet Blocking

Now that you have two of each letter, you’ll need to get your blocking board and straight pins. I like using a spray bottle for getting the letters wet, but you could soak them another way if you’d like.

Working with one letter at a time, spray the letter thoroughly. Place the letter on the blocking board, making sure to uncurl and shape the letter as you go. Pin the letter into place and allow to dry completely. Repeat with each letter.

Finishing Up

Once your letters are completely dry, it’s time to unpin them from the blocking board.

Then, match up the letter pairs with one on top and one on the bottom. Use your yarn tails to sew the two layers together, sewing around the entire perimeter of the letter shape. I think the letters look neatest if you match up and sew under the “v’s” of the stitches wherever possible.

Tuck a little stuffing between the layers as you go (a little goes a long way).

Weave in any remaining ends and trim.

After my ornaments were put together, I used some thin raffia and my yarn needle to add loops to be able to hang each letter. You could also use yarn or embroidery thread for your letters.

I hope you enjoyed these patterns and making your own crochet letter ornaments! I’d love to hear what colors you used in the comments.

And if you’d like to see more of my free Christmas crochet patterns, they’re all right here. Enjoy!

No time to crochet today? Save these Crochet Letter Ornament
patterns on Pinterest for when you need them!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Letter Ornaments appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Finding a cute way to package a gift makes it extra special for the recipient, even when it’s as small as a gift card. This pattern is quick and easy (and free!), so you can whip up as many as you need for your gift cards this year too.

You can also use these cute little stockings as gift toppers, fill them with candy, or hang them on the tree. You could even make enough to hang as a kind of advent calendar, with a treat or note tucked inside. Lots of possibilities with this pattern!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Stocking Gift Card Holder Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – I Love This Yarn in Cranberry (available at Hobby Lobby)
  Yarn Bee Fleece Lite in Sandstone (also available at Hobby Lobby)
• Size H/5.00mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Scissors (for trimming ends)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sl st- slip stitch
• FLO – front loops only

Finished size:

My stockings measure about 4″ wide x 5.25″ tall, using a size H/5.00mm hook and worsted weight (4) yarn. The opening for the gift card measures about 2.5″ across (gift cards are about 2″ wide). Your stockings may vary in size based on the yarn you use and your personal tension while crocheting.

Pattern Notes:

These mini stockings are made with simple stitches but don’t look basic at all! If you can single crochet and have just a little experience, you can make these crochet stocking gift card holders. These tips will help:

Pay close attention to the directions around round 11, when you’ll switch from working in the round to working in partial rows. This is for the heel of the stocking.

You’ll need to switch from your main color yarn to a second color for the top of the stocking. To switch colors, before finishing the last stitch with the old color, with the last 2 loops on the hook, drop the old color, pick up the new color, yarn over and complete the stitch. Now the new color will be on your hook and you can begin the next stitch.

The yarn I used for the top of the stocking is bulkier than the main color. You may find you want to size up your hook for those rounds, which is just fine. If you’re having any trouble seeing the tops of your stitches to work into, try feeling for each stitch post instead.

You can find an ad-free, printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes photo illustrations for each step.

Crochet Stocking Pattern:

You’ll work the stockings beginning with the toe, then the heel, and then up to the top.

R1: Using Cranberry (specific yarn list above), 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (5 sc, inc) 3x around. (21)
R5-R11: Sc in each st around.

You’ll now be working the heel of the stocking in partial, turned rows (instead of rounds). You can still use your stitch marker to mark the beginning of each row, if you find it helpful.

R12: You’ll begin working in rounds again.
Reattach cranberry yarn with a sc to one of the unworked stitches from round 12. Insert your stitch marker. Sc evenly into the ends of the partial rows and into the unworked red stitches from round 11. (22 – it’s ok if your stitch count varies slightly)
R13-R18: Sc in each st around.
R19: Switching to Fleece Lite yarn, in FLO, sc in each st around.
R20-R22: Sc in each st around.

If you’d like your stocking to have a loop for hanging (or just because you like the way the loop looks), don’t fasten off quite yet.

Work sc stitches until you get to the side of the stocking where you would like the loop. I had to work 9 sc here, but this number will depend on where you attached your yarn in round 12.

Then ch 6 and sl st into the same stitch. Fasten off, weaving in all remaining ends.

Finishing Up:

After my stockings were made, I wanted to add a little extra embellishment. I got small jingle bells and thin pieces of raffia (I split some down the center to make them thinner). Then I cut gift tag shapes out of paper bags.

I wrote names on the tags and used my yarn needle to weave the raffia through the stitches, securing inside the stocking. If you ask me, this little bit of personalization makes the stockings look extra adorable.

I hope you love your mini stockings! Have fun filling them and seeing the smiles on the faces of those you love.

If you’d like to see more of my free Christmas patterns, like the crochet stocking gift card holder, you can find them here. Happy crocheting!

No time to make these stockings right now? Save them on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Stocking Gift Card Holder appeared first on Crochet to Play.

The Legend of the Candy Cane

Have you ever heard of the Legend of the Candy Cane? I remember hearing about it when I was a kid, and then last year I came across it again. As the story goes, a 17th century German choirmaster wanted to keep his choir boys well-behaved during church services. So to keep them quiet in the pews, he gave them sugar sticks, but bent them into crooks to resemble shepherds’ staffs (apparently this made giving them a sweet more acceptable).

The red and white stripes came later, once peppermint grew in popularity. As it did, more was added to candy cane lore about what the red and white colors represented. Today, the poem in our printable connects all these ideas to the real reason for the season – Jesus!

Now, as to whether this is actual legend or more sentimental, I’ll let you be the judge. But either way, the meaning is sweet and brings us back to the truth of Christmas and the ultimate Truth of salvation in Jesus. I wasn’t able to find an author to credit, but no doubt he or she would be pleased that so many smile at this poem’s words.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Candy Cane Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Paintbox Cotton Aran in Red Wine and Paper White
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Pipe cleaner

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch

Finished Size:

Using the Paintbox Cotton Aran yarn listed above and a size E/3.5mm crochet hook, my candy cane measures about 5″/12.5cm tall.

Pattern Notes:

The candy cane pattern is worked in continuous rounds, so use a stitch marker at the beginning of each new round to mark your place.

The pattern alternates between red and white yarn. You’ll switch colors every two rounds, but there’s no need to cut the yarn each time. Instead, just switch back and forth and carry the yarn on the inside of the candy cane.

For the smoothest color changes, finish each round by pulling up the last loop of the last stitch using the color for the next round. Then continue working into the next round with the new color. If this technique is new to you, check out this video by the Crochet Guru.

Since our personal tension while crocheting may be different, you may find that your candy cane looks larger or smaller than mine when attaching it to the printable. You can adjust your candy cane in a few ways to make it fit the printable better. If it’s too short, continue adding rounds in the red and white pattern until you reach your desired length. If it’s too long, remove some rounds. And if you find your candy cane is too thick, you can reduce the number of stitches per round.

Candy Cane Pattern:

R1: Using white, sc 6 into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Sc in each st around.
R3-R4: Using red, sc in each st around.
R5-R6: Using white, sc in each st around.
R7-R8: Using red, sc in each st around.
R9-R10: Using white, sc in each st around.
R11-R12: Using red, sc in each st around.
R13-R14: Using white, sc in each st around.
R15-R16: Using red, sc in each st around.
R17-R18: Using white, sc in each st around.
R19-R20: Using red, sc in each st around.
R21-R22: Using white, sc in each st around.
R23-R24: Using red, sc in each st around.
R25-R26: Using white, sc in each st around.
R27-R28: Using red, sc in each st around.
R29-R30: Using white, sc in each st around.
R31-R32: Using red, sc in each st around.
R33-R34: Using white, sc in each st around.

Slip stitch to fasten off, leaving long tail (you’ll fasten off with white, but cut and secure red yarn inside). Cut pipe cleaner just under the length of the candy cane (when straight).

Insert the pipe cleaner into the candy cane. Then use your final yarn tail (in white) and yarn needle to pull the final stitches completely shut. Weave in your ends, and now you can bend your candy cane into the familiar curved shape.

Candy Cane Printable

Now that you’ve got your candy cane made, it’s time to print the poem to go with it. The printable opens as a PDF with four copies of the poem on one page.

I printed mine in color on cardstock, then used these laminating sheets to make them even sturdier. I cut each of the four poem cards out, inserted them into the laminating sheet, and cut around the edges again.

Then, I added the candy cane by making two small holes with my yarn needle. I used some red yarn and the yarn needle to bring it through the holes from the back to the front. Then, I secured the candy cane with a bow. If you want to make it extra sturdy, you could weave the yarn once or twice through the middle of the candy cane as well.

And there you have it! I hope you enjoyed this quick and easy crochet candy cane pattern and the “Legend of the Candy Cane” printable. Merry Christmas! And if you’d like to check out more of my free Christmas patterns, click here.

No time to make your candy canes today?
Save this post on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Candy Cane Pattern & Printable appeared first on Crochet to Play.

This new, free crochet angel pattern is the combination of those ideas. I took my former pattern and added details inspired by some family Christmas ornaments and figurines. I think you’ll love the result!

This angel is the exact size as the original in the nativity set (in case you want to substitute this version for the other), but could also be a Christmas tree ornament or a gift to display.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Free Crochet Angel Ornament Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Paintbox yarns in the following colors (less than one 50g ball each):
  Brown – “Coffee Bean” – hair (also pictured in Soft Fudge)
  Beige – “Vanilla Cream” – body, arms
  Red – “Red Wine” – heart
  Yellow – “Daffodil Yellow” – halo
  Cream – “Champagne White” – wings
  Tan – Rico Creative Cotton in “Clay” – head, hands
  
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends) and embroidery needle
• Stitch marker
• Stuffing
• Safety eyes – size 6mm
• Pipe Cleaner
• Plastic mesh screen
• Embroidery thread, black
• Straight pins

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• R – round or row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• dc – double crochet
• sl st- slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
• invdec – invisible decrease

Finished Size:

My angel ornament measures 5.5″/14cm from the base to the top of the head and 6″/15cm from wing tip to wing tip.

Pattern Notes:

After rounds 1-10, you’ll be instructed to insert a mesh screen at the base of the angel’s body. The screen keeps the base from rounding as you add stuffing. You’ll need to cut a circle about 2” in diameter to fit. You can also use cardboard or a plastic container lid.

This angel ornament is an amigurumi crochet pattern. If you’re a beginner, you may want to check out these amigurumi tips and tricks.

You can find a printer-friendly PDF version of this crochet angel pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes detailed, full-color photo illustrations for each step.

Pattern:

BodY & HEAd

R1: Using beige, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc) 6x around. (24)
R5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc) 6x around. (30)
R6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc) 6x around. (36)
R7: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R8-R10: Sc in each st around. After R10, insert mesh screen.
R11: (Sc in next 4 sts, invdec) 6x around. (30)
R12-R15: Sc in each st around. Begin stuffing as you go.
R16: (Sc in next 3 sts, invdec) 6x around. (24)
R17-R19: Sc in each st around.
R20: (Sc in next 2 sts, invdec) 6x around. (18)
R21-R23: Sc in each st around.
R24: (Sc, invdec) 6x around. (12)
R25: Sc in each st around.

Continue into the head (stuffing as you go).

R26: Switching to tan, sc in each st around.
R27: (Sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R28: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc) 6x around. (24)
R29: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc) 6x around. (30)
R30-R34: Sc in each st around.
R35: (Sc in next 3 sts, invdec) 6x around. (24)

Attach the safety eyes between rows 31 and 32, about 6 sts apart. Using black embroidery
thread, stitch 2-3 eyelashes on the outside corners of both eyes.
Using tan yarn and a yarn needle, stitch repeatedly over 2 stitches mid-way between the
eyes so the yarn bumps up like a little nose. Use a pink crayon or blush to make rosy cheeks. Then stuff
the head.

R36: (Sc in next 2 sts, invdec) 6x around. (18)
R37: (Sc, invdec) 6x around. (12)
R38: Sc2tog around until closed. Fasten off, using yarn tail to pull final stitches completely
shut.

Hair

R1-R5: Using brown, follow the directions from round 1-5 of the body. (30)
R6-R7: Sc in each st around.
R8: Sc in first 11 sts. Then, (sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sl st in next st) 3x. Sc in last 10 sts.
Remove stitch marker and sc in next 11 sts. Ch 1, turn.

You’ll now begin working in partial rows. The curved shell sts from R8 remain unworked.
R9: Sc across first 21 sts. (21)
R10-R12: Sc in each st across.

With the last loop from R12 on your hook, *ch 6. Sk 1 st, then attach chain with a sc. Repeat from * 9x across (however when you come to the last stitch, attach chain with a sl st rather than a sc).

Fasten off, leaving very long tail. Use yarn tail and yarn needle to sew hair to head.

Halo: Using yellow, ch 30. Join with sl st to make a ring. Continue to sl st (somewhat loosely) in each chain around. Fasten off, leaving long tail. Place around head, then use yarn needle and yarn tail to attach.

Heart

R1: Using red, sc 6 into a magic ring. (6)
R2: (Sc, inc) 3x around. (9)
R3-R4: Sc in each st around.

Pull yarn through last stitch and cut, leaving a tail. Repeat rounds 1-4, but this time do not cut the yarn. You now have the top curves of the heart. Keep the last loop of R4 on your hook.

R5: Holding the first curve next to the second curve, sc into any stitch of the first curve (mark with a stitch marker as the first stitch of this round). Continue to sc around the first curve, leaving the final stitch unworked (when you reach the yarn tail, just hold it down and crochet over it). Connect to the second curve, again leaving one stitch unworked (so the two unworked stitches are across from each other), and sc around the second curve. (16) See this blog post for additional photos of the curves of the heart.

Use the yarn tail from the first curve to sew up the hole left by the skipped stitches in the middle of the curves.

R6: Sc in each st around. (16) Start stuffing and continue until heart is completed.
R7: (Sc in next 2 sts, invdec) 4x around. (12)
R8: (Sc in next 2 sts, invdec) 3x around. (9)
R11: (Sc, invdec) 3x around. (6)

Fasten off, using yarn needle to pull tightly through final stitches to close completely. Weave in end.

arms

R1: Using tan, 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2-R3: Sc in each st around.
R4-R11: Switching to beige, sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Cut a length of pipe cleaner to fit arm and insert, bending into a curve. Sew arms to sides of body.
Pin the heart between the hands. Using yarn needle and tan yarn, attach heart to hands by weaving needle through one hand, through the heart, and through the other hand (repeating as needed).

Wings

R1: Using cream, ch 10. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch. 5 sc in last ch st. Turning and working on the other side of the chain, 5 sc. Leave last three chains unworked. (18) Ch 1, turn.
R2: Working around entire curved shape, 6 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc. (21) Ch 4, turn.
R3: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in additional 2 ch. Then 18 sc around. Leave last 3 sts unworked. (21) Ch 1, turn.
R4: Working around entire curved shape, 5 sc, 3 inc,13 sc. (24) Ch 3, turn.
R5: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in additional ch. Then 17 sc around. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Sl st to fasten off, leaving long tail to attach. (19)

Weave in beginning tails and wet block the wings with straight pins (if desired). Once dry, pin wings into place. Use yarn needle to attach to back of angel.

Well done! I hope you enjoyed making your own angel with this crochet angel pattern.

No time to crochet today? Save this pattern to Pinterest!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Free Crochet Angel Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

You can use this greenery any time of year, but I think it’s especially perfect for Christmas decorating. If you’re making a garland, ornaments, or an embellishment for the top of a gift, this pattern may be just what you need for your project. And the best part is, it takes very little time to work up a few stems.

The crochet pine needles are made by starting with a chain. Then, simple chains and slip stitches are used to branch off on either side of the main chain. Although it might look a little complicated, you’ll see it’s really easy once you get started.

You’ll probably notice the stems I made for this pattern are relatively short. That’s because I wanted them to match the size of the pine cones I had made. If you have a different length in mind, you can use the same basic idea in this pattern to create your desired length of greenery (more on that below).

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Pine Needle Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – worsted weight in preferred shade of green (yarn pictured is Knit Picks Dishie in Jalapeno)
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches/Abbreviation Used:

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• st/sts – stitch/stitches

Finished Size:

One finished pine needle “branch” is 3″/7.5cm long.

Pattern:

Leaving a beginning tail, ch 14. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch sts (fig. 1).
*From current loop on hook, ch 4 (fig. 2).
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch sts (fig. 3).
Attach with a sl st to the next unworked ch of original chain (fig. 4).
Sl st in next ch.

Repeat from * 4 more times along the original chain. This will give you one pine needle at the top of the chain and five down one side.

Now turn, and work up the other side of the chain. Sl st into the first chain (this is the same chain you finished working into on the first side – you’re now just working into the opposite side) (fig. 5).
Sl st again into the next st.
*From current loop on hook, ch 4. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch sts. Attach with a sl st to the next unworked ch (of original chain). Sl st in next ch. Repeat from * 4 more times along this side of the chain (fig. 6).

Finishing Up

To fasten off, first pull your yarn through your final stitch and cut, leaving a few inches. Then, use your yarn needle to weave this end back through your original chain. Once you have the number of pine needles desired, you can use their beginning tails to attach or sew where you need them.

Pretty simple, right? If you want to make the greenery longer or shorter, just adjust the initial chain to the length you want. Make sure your chain has an even number; then you can follow the same branching method used above. Using this method, you can customize the crochet pine needle pattern to any length you need.

If you like this crochet pine needle pattern, make sure to share it with your crocheting friends! And let me know in the comments how you’ll use your greenery. And you can find more free patterns from the blog here. Happy crocheting!

Save this pattern on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Pine Needle Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Once I was able to get to work on these, I experimented until I got a pine cone shape I liked. I tried different yarn weights and hook sizes and got all kinds of different results. The pine cone pattern shared here is my favorite of the bunch. It uses worsted weight yarn and a size E/3.5mm hook. However, you can use lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook for smaller pine cones.

The pattern does have a special stitch I’m calling the prickle stitch. I promise, it looks more complicated than it us! Just make sure to read through the entire pattern and the notes before starting and you’ll be all set. Let’s get started!

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

Crochet Pine Cone Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – worsted weight in preferred shade of brown (yarn pictured is Yarn Bee’s Yarn ID in Café Au Lait)
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Stuffing

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• ch – chain
• R – row
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• inc – increase (work 2 single crochet stitches into the next stitch)
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
• BLO – back loop only
• yo – yarn over
• Prickle stitch – yo, insert hook, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook), yo, insert hook into same stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all 3 loops remaining on hook

Finished Size:

Each finished pine cone measures about 3″/7.5cm in length.

Pattern Notes

The pine cones are made in two parts. First, you’ll crochet the inner pine cone shape, with some rounds worked only in the back loops. Then, you’ll make the pine cone’s “prickles”, working into the remaining front loops from the earlier rounds.

Inner Pine Cone Shape

R1: 6 sc into a magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
R3: In BLO, (sc, inc) 6x around. (18)
R4: Sc in each st around.
R5: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R6: Sc in each st around.
R7: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R8: Sc in each st around.
R9: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R10: (Sc, sc2tog) 6x around. (12) Stuff the inner pine cone.
R11: In BLO, sc in each st around.
R12: Sc2tog 6x around. Then, remove stitch marker and complete two additional sc2tog. (4) Do not fasten off.

Pine Cone “Prickles”

With the last loop from the last stitch still on your hook, (ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 2x around, using the 4 sts remaining from R12.

Now we need to “jump” down to the next round of front loops to work into. To do this, we’ll work one prickle stitch sequence into a post stitch of the round below.
Ch 2, turn and work into a post of R12 directly below current loop on hook (see photo below): (Prickle st, ch 2) 1x.
Sl st into front loop of R11 directly below. Even though this prickle is sideways, it blends in with the others in the end.

Hold pine cone upside-down for the remainder of the pattern.
Working into front loops remaining from R11: (Ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 6x around.
You may notice, due to working in the round, that the front loops remaining meet with a slight gap where the round begins/ends- just crochet right over it.

Ch 2, turn and work into post of R10 directly below current loop on hook: (prickle st, ch 2) 1x. Sl st into back loop of R9 directly below.

Working into front loops remaining from R9: (Ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 9x around.

Ch 2, turn and work into post of R8 directly below current loop on hook: (prickle st, ch 2) 1x. Sl st into back loop of R7 directly below.

Working into front loops remaining from R7: (Ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 9x around.

Ch 2, turn and work into post of R6 directly below current loop on hook: (prickle st, ch 2) 1x. Sl st into back loop of R5 directly below.

Working into front loops remaining from R5: (Ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 9x around.

Ch 2, turn and work into post of R4 directly below current loop on hook: (prickle st, ch 2) 1x. Sl st into back loop of R3 directly below.

Working into front loops remaining from R3: (Ch 2, prickle st in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) 9x around.

Fastening Off

Now, depending on how you plan to use your pine cone, you can fasten off in a couple of different ways. The first option is to create a loop for hanging the pine cone. To do this, with the last loop still on your hook, sl st into the posts of rounds 1 and 2. This gets your hook to the center of the pine cone. Then chain the length of the loop you want, and slip stitch again into the center to attach the loop. Then you can fasten of by pulling through, cutting the yarn, and weaving in the end.

Another option is to just fasten off from the last stitch, pull through and leave a long end. If you’re planning to make a number of pine cones to turn into a garland, you could use this method and then use the yarn ends to attach the pine cones to a chain.

Adding Greenery

Now, you also might want to add pine needles to your pine cones (as shown in the main photo). If so, you’ll want to check out this pattern. I made a few length of this greenery, then sewed it to the top of each pine cone to finish them up.

If you’re searching for more ways to embellish gifts with yarn, check out this video by Ophelia Talks. And if you’d like to see more free Crochet to Play patterns, head here.

So, how will you use this crochet pine cone pattern? Try it for garlands, gift toppers, ornaments and more. Let me know in the comments what you like best!

Save this idea on Pinterest for later!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Pine Cone Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

With Christmas approaching, I was in the mood for a quick wintery project, so I decided to work up a crochet snowflake pattern. There are tons of beautiful crochet snowflakes out there, but I wanted something simple and easy that would work with yarn I already had. I also knew I wanted to experiment with starching the snowflakes so they would hold their shape (more about that below).

These snowflakes look more difficult than they are, I promise! You can make them with any white yarn and hook (my specifics are in the pattern), and you only need to know how to do a magic ring, chain, slip stitch, and double crochet. Simple!

No time to make your snowflakes now? Pin this post for later!

Crochet Snowflake Pattern

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Cotton” in White
• Size E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends (I like these ones with bent tips)

If you’re going to starch your snowflakes like I did, you will also need:

• Corn Starch
• Straight pins
• A blocking board or foam board

Stitches Used:

• magic ring
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• dc – double crochet

Finished Size:

After starching and blocking, my snowflakes measure about 4″ across.

Pattern:

Begin with a magic ring.
R1: Ch 5. (Dc, ch 2) 5x around. Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch 5.
R2: Ch 3. 2 dc in first ch space. (Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch space) 5x around. Ch 3. Sl st into top of ch 3.
R3: Sl st into next 2 sts and into 1^st ch space. Into that ch space and each ch space around: ch 4, sl st, ch 6, sl st, ch 8, sl st, ch 6, sl st, ch 4, sl st, then sl st across next 3 sts and into next ch space) 6x.
Fasten off, weaving in ends.

Starching the Snowflakes:

After making the snowflakes, I tried a couple of different starching methods. My first attempt was a flop (literally, because my snowflake was still floppy!) so I won’t waste your time with what I did. But I had success with a corn starch method I followed, using the directions described in this blog post by Cy Crochet. I recommend reading once through it to get an idea of the steps before starting.

After reading that blog post, I followed the steps mixing corn starch with boiling water. It cooled and thickened up, and I soaked the snowflakes in the mixture. Then I blocked the snowflakes on foam posterboard, stretching (slightly) and pinning each part of the snowflake. Blocking this way allowed the snowflakes to dry with more definition and detail showing. I let my snowflakes to dry for about 24 hours before removing the pins. Voila! I had snowflakes that held their shape and could be used in lots of different ways.

Side note: I also tried combining glitter with the cornstarch mixture and it wasn’t a huge success. The glitter flaked off a lot after the snowflakes dried, so if you want sparkly snowflakes, I’d recommend using a yarn like this one.

Try it for yourself

I hope you are able to make your own crochet snowflakes using this pattern! If you do, I’d love to see, so tag me on Instagram @crochettoplay. And for more free patterns, click here. Merry Christmas!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Snowflake Pattern appeared first on Crochet to Play.

This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend to my readers. If you click on one of these links and decide you’d like to make a purchase, I will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

As much as I loved making all these mittens (12 pairs in all!), I think I loved coming up with ideas to tuck inside even more. For example, I added notes like “Write letters to Santa” and “Bring treats to the neighbors”. I tried to choose a mix of fun surprises and thoughtful acts of kindness to help keep our family focused on goodwill towards others this time of year.

You can find a printer-friendly PDF version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. The premium version of the pattern includes detailed, full-color photo illustrations for each step.

No time for the crochet mitten garland right now? Pin it here for later!

Crochet Mitten Garland

Each mitten in the garland is made with exactly the same basic mitten pattern. The mittens work up quickly using mostly half double crochet. You can add variety to the basic shape by using different colors and adding stripes. You can also sew on a heart or snowflake detail. I’ve included some pictures so you can see the way that I added variety to the pattern. But of course you can customize your garland the way you see fit! I hope you enjoy making your own.

Materials Used:

• Yarn – Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Cotton” in White, Red, Burnt Sienna (which is more of a dark red), and Forest Green
• Size US E/3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 1 stitch marker
• Straight pins, as necessary
• 24 mini clothes pins (I used these from Hobby Lobby)
• Twine (also from Hobby Lobby)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used:

• R – round/row
• magic ring
• ch- chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – triple crochet
• FPhdc – front post half double crochet (Sarah Zimmerman of Repeat Crafter Me has a helpful tutorial for this stitch and the stitch below here)
• BPhdc – back post half double crochet

Finished Size:

Each mitten measures about 3″ x 3″ (including thumb).

Basic Mitten Shape:

You can use this main pattern to make a solid colored mitten, or work alternating rows of different colors for a striped look.

R1: 8 hdc into a magic ring. (8)        
R2: 2 hdc in each st around. (16)
R3: (Hdc, 2 hdc) 8x around. (24)
R4-R11: Hdc in each st around.
R12-R13: (FPhdc, BPhdc) 12x around.
Fasten off, weaving in end.

Thumb:

R1: 8 hdc into a magic ring. (8)
R2-R3: Hdc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving long tail for attaching.
Use yarn needle to sew thumb to mitten. When making pairs of mittens, make sure to sew thumbs on opposite sides.

Heart:

Working into a magic ring:
Ch 3, 3 tr, 3 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, ch 3
Sl st into magic ring to fasten off, leaving long tail.
Then, use yarn tail to sew onto one side of mitten.

Snowflake:

Working into a magic ring:
Ch 1, (1 sc, ch 4, hdc in back loop of 2^nd ch from hook, sl st in back loops of next 2 chs) 6x.
Sl st in first sc to fasten off, leaving long tail. Do not fully close beginning magic ring. Use yarn tail to sew onto one side of mitten.

And that’s it! I’d love to see your garlands and how you personalize them, so please tag me @crochettoplay on Instagram. And if you’d like to see more Christmas patterns, check these out. Merry Christmas!

© 2026 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. Designed and written by Jennifer Percival.  This pattern is property of Crochet to Play.  The written pattern and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Crochet Mitten Garland appeared first on Crochet to Play.

Feeling a little intimidated by the color changes in buffalo plaid? I know it looks complicated, but it’s actually pretty straightforward once you get the hang of it. For most buffalo plaid patterns, you only alternate between two colors per row or round. Some rows will alternate between black and dark red stitches, and some between dark red and bright red stitches. Other than keeping your balls of yarn separate and untangled, if you can change colors, you’ve got it!

I’ve rounded up some of my very favorite plaid patterns from other designers (and added a new pattern of my own!), with pictures and links so you can pick out a new project that’s perfect for you. Enjoy!

1. Buffalo Check Crochet Hat by Daisy Farm Crafts

Daisy Farm Crafts is a crochet genius and always delivers with her buffalo plaid patterns. She came up with this darling hat as a spinoff of her traditional buffalo plaid blanket. It’s worked flat and then sewn up and topped with a pom-pom (of course), and best of all it’s free!

2. Yukon the Moose by Crochet to Play

I had to throw in my latest pattern, Yukon the Moose! Yukon is cuddly, huggable, and so fun to make. You can give him a buffalo plaid vest or scarf (or how I’ve done it – putting both on at the same time). He is so friendly and sweet and would make a great gift. Find Yukon here on Ravelry or on Etsy.

3. Buffalo Plaid Baby Blanket by Stitching Together

I’m just waiting for someone outdoorsy to have a baby so I can make this blanket! Jessica at Stitching-Together designed this adorable pattern and has it up for free on her blog. I think it’s the perfect combination of a neutral color with buffalo plaid accents, and it looks so warm and cozy. Love it!

4. Buffalo Plaid Cowl by Crochet365KnitToo

The pattern for this crochel cowl is available from Cheryl at Crochet365KnitToo on her blog for free! I love the way the cowl is a crossover wrap and how she added the bright red buttons on the side. So many women would love this as a Christmas gift!

5. Buffalo Plaid Baby Trapper Hat by Whistle & Ivy

I can just picture a Christmas card with a baby wearing this hat! I love trapper hats in general and when you add buffalo plaid? Perfection! Find this free buffalo plaid crochet pattern here from Whistle & Ivy.

6. Buffalo Check Christmas Stocking by Daisy Farm Crafts

Another (free!) Daisy Farm Crafts pattern that I love is this Christmas stocking. Imagine a bunch of these hanging over the mantle with twinkly lights and greenery on top! You could even experiment with black, white, and gray plaid, or a combination of green and black to mix it up.

7. True North Cup Cozy by Bea Lascelle

If you sell your crochet work at handmade markets or need a stocking stuffer gift, you need this pattern ASAP. Bea Lascelle has come up with such a great, quick make that people will love! Coffee tastes better when it’s cute…it’s true.

8. Buffalo Spruce Pillow by Two Little Birds Patterns

If you love home decor that combines farmhouse + modern + crochet, you have to start following Emily of Two Little Birds Patterns. I adore everything she comes out with and this pillow pattern is one of my favorites! Buffalo. Plaid. Christmas. Trees. Need I say more? Get the pattern here on Etsy.

9. Crochet Plaid Ornament Bauble by Whistle & Ivy

If you’re adding the warm, woodsy vibe of buffalo plaid to your Christmas decor, don’t forget these ornaments by Whistle & Ivy! I love the way she’s accented them with greenery and berries. These would make great present toppers too.

I hope you’ve found some ideas you like from the buffalo plaid crochet patterns you see here. If you’re short on time now, but want to save this post for later, click here or the image below to save to Pinterest. Happy buffalo plaid crocheting!

© 2023 Crochet to Play
All rights reserved. This blog is property of Crochet to Play.  The writing and images are for personal use only.  Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the writing or images, in part or in whole. Thank you.

The post Buffalo Plaid Crochet Patterns appeared first on Crochet to Play.